Interesting Burl

[stilgar]

At least I think it is interesting. I really like the way that this looks when it is polished. I only have a yellow one to show off because I had a problem with the silver.

I am interested in your opinions. Not only on how it looks but on a selling price. I have been asked to sell a couple of these but I have no idea on the $$

 

[alamocdc]

I like that burl too, Brian. Concerning price, it's one of those things that takes some trial and error. It's easier to start a bit high and come down, than to start low and come up. The formula that works for me is blank price (or what it should have cost me) plus kit price times 4.

 

[Radman]

That is some really nice Burl Brian. Never sold a pen so I can't help there[]
Radman[8D]

 

[DFM]

Consider your expenses plus your time invested then add in overhead and profit.

 

[Dario]

Take Billy's advise...I started low ($20 for SL and $25 for Euro) and now my officemates think $40 for lacquer finished Amboyna Platinum Jr Gent is expensive!!! [:0]

I am considering this formula right now:
2 x (kit + blank) + $25.00

It is a good start...just adjust your factor (2 in this sample) and the flat rate for your labor etc ($25 in this sample).

 

[alamocdc]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />I am considering this formula right now:
2 x (kit + blank) + $25.00

I guess I should have put it in equation form like Dario did.
(kit cost + blank cost equivalent) x 4 = selling price []

I bet if I were to compare Dario's formula w/mine, they would come out pretty close.

 

[Dario]

Billy,

I guess they are close especially around average priced kits. Once you started using Emperors (esp. the limited edition) then yours goes way much more expensive. []

On the other side of it...if you use a $0.50 blank and a $1.50 kit then you will only sell it for $8.00??? I don't think so. [}]

 

[Dario]

BTW Brian, mind telling us what wood this is?

 

[alamocdc]

Understood, Dario, but I never price a blank at $0.50 even if I only paid that for it. When I input #s into the formula, I never price a blank lower than $2.00 b/c that's what they usually cost. I never price burls or highly figured woods lower than $4.00 because that's the least you are likely to find one for (short of sellers on here like you, BigRob, Lower48, etc.), but that can be a rare instance. Acrylics at $3.00 and so on. Using the normal retail prices gives a more standardized price list. Once I've made the calculations, I establlish the base price for each pen style. Having said that, my SLs start at $20 and go up.

I'm not saying my method/formula is best, just that it works for me. The way I came up w/it is by reading the posts by some of our more successful sellers and what they get for a particular style. I tired a number of multipliers until I found the one that gave me basic comparable numbers for each of the following styles: SLs, Cigars, Jr. Gents & Barons, and Jr. Statesman. Using 4 as a multiplier did that. I do occassionaly have to round up, or down to get a number I'm comfortable with, but it isn't by much. Again, this is my opinion only and how I do it. Others MPG may vary. []

 

[Dario]

Very good point Billy...we can all have a formula but in the end you will have the final feel and say on what a particular pen is worth...and price it accordingly.

One thing that we don't or can't easily factor in is the final products over-all worksmanship (quality and appearance). I strongly believe that finish greatly affects the price.

Interesting point about the price you use on the blanks...I tend to price them as I bought them...which can be very cheap []. See I am learning too while giving a little advise!

 

[chigdon]

I think there is a minimum price for every pen regardless of the cost of the kit or it is not worth turning (just my humble opinion). Don't get me wrong an Emporer is worth a lot more than a slimline. However, it takes me as long to turn a Slimline as it does a Cigar so I don't see why it should be worth less. If it is a pen that is "hand made by (your name goes here)" with one of the nicest woods in the world it is worth a certain amount or it should not be done. OK I will get off my soap box now.

 

[gerryr]

Dario and Billy,
You both talk about blank and it cost, what about a box or pouch or leather case or whatever? Where you put that in your formula?

 

[Dario]

Chris and Gerry,

I don't factor in the cost of the box as well as the refill (I do give one extra away). It is built in my $25.00 flat rate. Ofcourse my formula is mine...feel free to adjust and modify as you wish if you choose to adopt it. [] Skill level (and market) will eventually change this so it will evolve more as time goes by.

I do believe too that there should be a minimum...as shown on my formula it will be $25.00 whether the kit or wood is free. I used to sell for $20.00 and I just doesn't feel right with it. Now my minimum will be $28.00 and upwards...ofcourse friends and family may get some discount or even freebies [].

 

[stilgar]

What a complex answer to a simple question. Sounds like my work.

When I have priced a pen in the past, I also included the sealers and polishes. I have sold one like that one for $50USD.

As for the wood, it is a gold buckeye burl with no stain or other changes. Just a good polish and micromesh. I have a silver buckeye burl that is also great but I do not have a picture of that yet.