Got this blank in the mail today

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Drstrangefart

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This is another one from the blank fairy. I just can't believe how good it looks now that it's turned. I need some more work on my reverse painting skills, the glue keeps breaking loose on me. I think I just need to make more room. Probably by buying an 8mm drill bit and getting it over with. I put it on a rhodium Comfort and skipped the rubber grip.
 
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Buzzzz4

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I find that drilling the slim with a J bit works well and gives enough room. 8mm might be a bit for the slims.

Nice looking pens and great fit. Don't know if it's the photography or if it is the pens, could still use some good polishing.
 

Drstrangefart

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I find that drilling the slim with a J bit works well and gives enough room. 8mm might be a bit for the slims.

Nice looking pens and great fit. Don't know if it's the photography or if it is the pens, could still use some good polishing.

Could be a little of both. I'm just happy with the amount of improvement I've gotten in the last couple of weeks. It looks a LOT cleaner in the hand. That camera is not very forgiving.
 

Bobalu

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I agree with Buzzzz4 on this Allen. The difference between a 7mm and the J bit is only .014" where the difference between the 7mm and 8mm is .194". Enough to drive a truck through in our world. Well, maybe a real small truck. :biggrin::wink:

How about discribing what you are doing to reverse paint --- paint type, brush type, number of coats, drying time, glue type, etc. I'm sure someone can give you some pointers.

That is a sweet looking blank. I know it can't be one of mine, as there are far too many colors. Nice looking pen.
 

Drstrangefart

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I agree with Buzzzz4 on this Allen. The difference between a 7mm and the J bit is only .014" where the difference between the 7mm and 8mm is .194". Enough to drive a truck through in our world. Well, maybe a real small truck. :biggrin::wink:

How about discribing what you are doing to reverse paint --- paint type, brush type, number of coats, drying time, glue type, etc. I'm sure someone can give you some pointers.

That is a sweet looking blank. I know it can't be one of mine, as there are far too many colors. Nice looking pen.

It's pretty simple. I drill it out, use a gun cleaning brush to clean the hole up. I use a q tip to paint the inside with acrylic craft paint, 2 or 3 coats, usually I scuff the tubes up on the bench grinder and put a couple coats on there. That's about it. And Bob I try to remember to credit you for all your blanks.
 

watchman7

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Try a 9/32 bit for your slimlines. Also you can color your glue easily if you are using something like 5 minute epoxy. Just put a couple of drops in the epoxy as you mix the two solutions together and the epoxy will take on the color very nicely.
 

bitshird

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I agree, color your Epoxy, CA likes to eat paint, but Epoxy tinted with a few drops of acrylic paint , plus painting the tubes works great in my unlearned opinion.
 

PenMan1

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Nice looking pens, Allan! Those blanks look really familiar:) I'm glad to see you moving toward upgraded hardware,too.

Try using a 9/32 bit as short as you can chuck it. That's how I did 7mm sets that were backpainted. It worked flawlessly and the single 9/32 bit was 1.29 at HD.

Keep up the good work!
 

Drstrangefart

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Thanks for the feedback. I am in the midst of a small change in the process. I'm lining the inside of the back half of the blank with glue before I slip the tube coated with glue in. It's a pain to clean up, but it gets stuff glued in but GOOD. Also, I mounted mt tubes on the mandrel and hit e'm on high speed at 150 grit to shape and scuff them. I found a really effective way to clean out the gun cleaning brush and it seems to be back up to par making the extra room needed on the inside of the blank. When I go shopping again I plan on looking at both J bits and 9/32nd and figuring out which one I wanna go with. The more simple the process the more effective it is. The hardware came from the blank fairy, too, and once it's gone, I'm back to basics until some stuff sells.
 

workinforwood

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Let the paint cure for 24 hrs, makes a big difference. This way it isn't soft. As said, CA likes to eat paint, so use 5 min epoxy and tint it. There is no difference in the time you will have to wait to spin your pen. With 5 min epoxy, you can spin the pen 30 min later no problem. With CA, you should still wait at least that long, because CA inside the pen beyond the ends is going to get less air to it so it will take longer to cure. So you see by playing it safe, the time difference is nil.
 
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