game #3 blanks

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glenspens

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Sedonas w/blanks from Robutacion (George) game #3
The 1st 2 pic are the Tortuosa /Corkscrew Willow and the 2nd 2 pic are Holly Oak, per the timber list that he sent with the wood blanks.:cool:

Thanks George
 

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robutacion

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Thanks mate,

That is the first pen I've seen from the #15Z (diagonal cut), I only recently cut those blanks and the first ever in diagonal so, is as attractive as I always imagined it to be.

The #33B (burl) stabilized, does always look good...!

I'm not sure if is the way the #33 pic comes up in my computer but, it seems to is slightly undercut at the bottom barrel's middle part, you may have hit a hard/soft patch, even though the blank was stabilized and the tool dug in a little.

Is not the end of the world but, if this is actually the case, you can fix that by, putting the barrels back on the mandrel/lathe and try to even up the high spots very gently on the bottom barrel and remove a little on the top barrel so that they will match and then, built up with CA with enough coats to bring it to the bushings size. It will be a deep gloss finish but it will improve its looks considerably...!

You always serve much better a good friend with the truth, rather than trying to be friendly with a lie...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

robutacion

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its the pic ,after i took the pic and looked at it i went back took another look at the pen..good to go . so i though i would post it to see if anyone would see it .. and say anything and George was on it . and boy is that holly oak hard or what

Well mate, I know your work, and got me puzzled that I saw the same indentation on both pics so, and as always, I call it as I see it and if I see it wrong, I appreciate to be corrected.

The whole this is that, other that may not know your work, may have looked at it and simple think that you aren't much good, when I know, you do good work so, bringing the attention to the issue publicly, would give us the opportunity to clarify any doubts that could go through some people's minds, and I don't wanted that to happen...!

The issue of taken quality and accurate pics is even more difficult than turning pens, photography is an art all on its own, some simple cameras do sometimes a great job for people with not a lot of knowledge about the issue but, I've seen a big increase of pen turners investing good money in cameras and other equipment such as tents, lights etc. that can produce some extraordinary pic quality but I have to confess, not for me, I'm a "point and shoot" type of guy so, I know my limitations also...!

As for the #15 Holly-Oak, yes it is a dense wood that is also very tough however, it finishes easily and beautifully, indeed a quite different wood to work with than most...!

Cheers
George
 

glenspens

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George thanks and if i had not seen the pen in my hand i would say the same thing. i did not think how it would make me look,if i had it to do over, i would not have posted to see if anyone noticed the curve that my point and shoot camera put on the pen,i would have reshot the pic of the pen...but its to late by the time i get home this afternoon it will be on its way to Tenn.
 

glenspens

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Thanks Krash, just keep in mind that the holly-oak in hard and when you get to turnning it you may want to stop 1/2 way and put some then ca on the blank it may want to spilt with the grain i got to mine before it came a part. I forgot to tell George that.
 
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robutacion

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Thanks Krash, just keep in mind that the holly-oak in hard and when you get to turnning it you may want to stop 1/2 way and put some then ca on the blank it may want to spilt with the grain i got to mine before it came a part. I forgot to tell George that.

Ha, ha...! I had a good reason why I though was a good time to write this thread, at the same day I decided what Mr. Anonymous game #3 was going to be...!

My advice is a precautionary one, not only on cross cur blanks but, and as I clearly mentioned, most diagonal cut woods, can want to separate/rip when turning a little rough/aggressively (exceptions do apply...!)

Most Oaks have "rays" instead of "grain", some Oaks are composed of long wood layers, all running in the same direction, the 2 ones (#14 & #15) I have recently offered as prizes, are the very best example of that, this is not a bad thing or a defect, I like to see it more like a feature, as those are 2 of my most preferred woods...!

As explained in that thread, some woods are more prone to become fragile when turning, due to the reasons discussed so, the degree of preparation and or care taken while turning them, is really up to you. Thin CA soaking as you go, is always a good thing but, not always necessary if other preparations are put in place...!

I'm considering cutting some of the best logs of the #15 Holly-Oak (generally small sizes) and try to get some good cross cut blanks, they will be spectacular, I remember when I got the first broken branch of this wood species, I only made half a dozen of diagonal and cross cut blanks, at that time I was making samples of every type of wood and cuts, I remember well the blank I round and finished with a gloss varnish, at that time (about 7 years ago), that's what I was using (dipping) and the results were stunning, I can't find any of those old pics but, I should have that sample somewhere in the shed, amongst hundreds of other samples of solid wood and Resifills...!

What I would like to remind you folks, particularly the new turners is that, 80% of blanks that produce above normal results, did require above normal work, effort and dedication so, is no reason to get "scared" of trying diagonal and cross cut blanks, you will get proportionally rewarded for the work and effort you will put into it, believe me, I known from experience...!

Cheers
George
 

OZturner

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Most Attractive pens, Glen.
Great Blanks, and Craftsmanship
Thanks for the Thread, and to you and George for opportunity for the Exchange of Valuable Information.
Most Enlightening, and Worthwhile.
Never Too Old to Learn.
Brian.
 
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