Frank turned Eagle blank

[Rifleman1776]

The blank shown below was acquired from Eagle in a trade. It is one of four and, in my opinion, the least complex. The final pen is from a 7mm European kit. You can see I eliminated the center band. For whatever reason, the drill bit wandered. The blanks were held tightly in a machinists vice and I checked my drill press square. Why is a puzzlement. The drift wasn't much but with pens a little can be a lot. I sanded through the finest grit of Micro Mesh and stopped several times to do a hand lengthwise sanding to get rid of the ring effect. But there still is some finish ringing. Drats. The blank is bloodwood and maple, the added segment to replace the center band is maple also. In my estimation, I turned a '10' blank into about a '6' pen. BTW, the 'proud' appearance at the cap isn't there. I believe it is an effect of the photo.

 

[wdcav1952]

Neat pen, Frank. I got better results in eliminating my finish rings by letting the finish harden a couple of days, then buffing with white diamond using my "Boone Buffing System." []

 

[Czarcastic]

I think that's a pretty nice looking pen. The picture is a little too small to see the rings, but the finish looks good from here.
I'm sure its an optical illusion from the slant of the lamination, but the center ring looks like its not square to the pen in the photo.
I think you're underestimating your talents only giving that a "6". It looks much better than that in my opinion.

 

[Chuck Key]

Would it be possible to show a picture with the refill extended? It would show how the upper and lower blanks line up with this style blank. Also, maybe a little larger photo while you are at it. Thank you

 

[fritzmccorkle]

eagle is a nice guy. giving up that blank must have been like parting with a child (hahaha, ok so it might have been harder)

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by fritzmccorkle
<br />eagle is a nice guy. giving up that blank must have been like parting with a child (hahaha, ok so it might have been harder)

Eagle has (despite rumors to the contrary) a great attitude about his work and helping others. I'm the one that had the problem taking saw, drill and gouges to it. Had to say mantras, go out and do a warrior dance for bravery, then call Pastor Bill over to help me keep the faith while turning. []

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Czarcastic
<br />I think that's a pretty nice looking pen. The picture is a little too small to see the rings, but the finish looks good from here.
I'm sure its an optical illusion from the slant of the lamination, but the center ring looks like its not square to the pen in the photo.
I think you're underestimating your talents only giving that a "6". It looks much better than that in my opinion.

It's square. I think the twisty/slanty rings and pattern of the background material make it look katy-whumpus. Thanks for compliment. I'm going to hand work on those rings.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Hey Frank
It looks great, after all it's wood[]
One thing I forgot to check,
In each view I see three inlays, either 3 on the blank or 3 on the pen.
Does that mean I put another three in there you can't see?
That would mean there were probobly six sides to that blank.
six spirals
That's odd, I don't have an indexer.

 

[Darley]

Originally posted by Rifleman
<br /> For whatever reason, the drill bit wandered. The blanks were held tightly in a machinists vice

The drill bit follow the wood grain , so you have to drill high speed 1/16" at the time and draw back the bit until done.

BTW nice pen and lucky you to have some of eagle blanks

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />Hey Frank
It looks great, after all it's wood[]
One thing I forgot to check,
In each view I see three inlays, either 3 on the blank or 3 on the pen.
Does that mean I put another three in there you can't see?
That would mean there were probobly six sides to that blank.
six spirals
That's odd, I don't have an indexer.

Yeppers, this was the six-sided blank. And, as you explained on the phone, most complicated one of the four to make. I picked it because I thought it was the simplest. [:I] Oh, well.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Darley
<br />

Originally posted by Rifleman
<br /> For whatever reason, the drill bit wandered. The blanks were held tightly in a machinists vice

The drill bit follow the wood grain , so you have to drill high speed 1/16" at the time and draw back the bit until done.

BTW nice pen and lucky you to have some of eagle blanks

Talked to Eagle about that last night. He has his theories, I have mine. I have a large stock of osage orange, box elder and dogwood so I'm going to experiment drilling blanks to see if I can replicate the 'wander'.

 

[BigRob777]

Frank,
The same thing happened to me today, with the bit wandering. I started a hole in the middle, then the bit flexed 1/8" into the blank. I might have to chuck the bit deeper, or tighten the table more. I am having problems with my chuck falling off, because I don't know squat about drill presses. It is a pretty heavy press for a bench top (42" tall). I need to read the manual (hey, what a concept). I was toying with the idea of making up some laminated, or inlay blanks today, but my barrel trimmer came in early, thanks wood_turningz. Wow, those stripes do create an optical illusion. My first pen has the same problem with the CB looking askew (except that it isn't an illusion in mine).[]

Darley, I'm going to try your suggestion next time.

 

[Darley]

Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />

Talked to Eagle about that last night. He has his theories, I have mine. I have a large stock of osage orange, box elder and dogwood so I'm going to experiment drilling blanks to see if I can replicate the 'wander'.

Ok that's good and to make more complicated try to laminated the 3 wood, osage orange is the one with more grain,I don't know dogwood, I use brad point drill bit, dewalt pilot point for corian, PR and any thing esle who's not wood, any way good luck with your trial and lest us posted with the result

 

[jvsank]

A great looking pen

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />

Originally posted by Darley
<br />

Originally posted by Rifleman
<br /> For whatever reason, the drill bit wandered. The blanks were held tightly in a machinists vice

The drill bit follow the wood grain , so you have to drill high speed 1/16" at the time and draw back the bit until done.

BTW nice pen and lucky you to have some of eagle blanks

Talked to Eagle about that last night. He has his theories, I have mine. I have a large stock of osage orange, box elder and dogwood so I'm going to experiment drilling blanks to see if I can replicate the 'wander'.

I just finished an experiment drilling blanks. Tough job, considering that yesterday I tore a deltoid muscle on my right arm and can't even raise the arm to scratch my ear. I rechecked the square of the drill press and found it was off just a fraction of a hair, fixed that. Enneyhow, using a high quality brad point bit at about 500 rpm, I carefully centered all and secured in a machinists vice. Of those drilled, one wandered. On inspection, I had more figure than the rest. Not scientifically proof positive, but my conclusion is that bits will follow grain and often that is beyond our control.

 

[ctEaglesc]

I have stopped using brad points.
Since I have the Drill Dr. and can make any bit a split point I can sharpen anytime I want. due to the variety of materials and a lot of antler the braad points aren't worth it for me.
Even a bit from thh HF index can be made into a split bit.
That wild swirly one barrel pen I turned last week and posted was drilled on my Jet mini.
The barrel length is 4 inches..
It came out dead center.
Between the amount of cuts and CA in that sucker I don't think the bit could find any grain to follow.

 

[alamocdc]

For what it's worth, Frank, I've noticed that my split point bits don't tend to wander nearly as much as my brad points do. They may be great for flat work, but except for my 7mm, I'm using nothing by SP now. Just too cheap to buy a new 7mm SP.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Drill Dr is a money saver in the long run.No need to buy "specialty bits"
Word of caution,get the one that goes up to the 3/4 bits.
The others I don't believe will make the split points and teh $80.00 one you find at the borgs do not have a user friendly method of changing the diamond wheel.
It is a great tool to have in the shop.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have a DD500, like it. But early on with end grain drilling I found I prefered brad points. However, always worth going back and retrying things. Except, I'm not likely to buy a 7 mm twist drill just to try, may experiment for the h--- of it with other sizes. I do know that for sizes like 1/2" & 3/4" in end grain, brad is only way to go to avoid splitting.

 

[Darley]

Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />Drill Dr is a money saver in the long run.No need to buy "specialty bits"
Word of caution,get the one that goes up to the 3/4 bits.
The others I don't believe will make the split points and teh $80.00 one you find at the borgs do not have a user friendly method of changing the diamond wheel.
It is a great tool to have in the shop.

Eagle could you post a pic of those Drill Dr, may try to find them here, if I can't find them, will still using my brad and pilot point, thanks
bit

 

[ctEaglesc]

Darley-
Here's the link to the Mfgr.
The prices through them seemed high.
BTW this company also does an upgrade program.
If you send in an older one you can pay a difference and get a better model.
From the get go the prices on their site seem high.
http://www.drilldoctorstore.us/drilshar.html