Fly Fishing Pen - Custom Blank Need Critiques

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RyanNJ

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Jan 31, 2010
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I have been working on this for a while and finally got the courage to cast the blank. Well 2 problems i know of are A. I didnt wait long enough to demold and b. I turned it too soon. I used alumite and casted the blank this morning i should have waited until monday to demold and turn but i got anxious and it shows because you can see some MM lines in the blank. The only real problem i had when making the blank is air pockets tight against the tube (as Pictured) and when i press fitted the pen it looks like additional air pockets were made at the ends. Other than that there are only a few micro bubbles but this was my first time doing a tube in pour the other 2 pours i have done have been slabs.

I need tips and opinions good bad or indifferent

right out of the mold
5bceca3f.jpg


a4fc60b0.jpg


74a3182f.jpg
 
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Drstrangefart

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It looks like you're headed in the right direction. I'd try again. And let the mold set up on a vibrating surface to work the bubbles out. A dryer, bandsaw, whatever it takes. It looks like you KNOW you're looking at a fly fishing pen BEFORE having to be told, so that's right on the money.
 

Drstrangefart

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i use a pressure pot so how would a vibrating surface work or do i not use the pressure pot

No clue, honestly. I was going on what I've been reading trying yo figure out how I'm gonna get started casting on my own. Maybe set it out on a vibrating surface instead of the pressure pot? I'm not trying to pretend to be an expert, just wanna see more of this stuff to learn from.
 

PTownSubbie

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i use a pressure pot so how would a vibrating surface work or do i not use the pressure pot

You can still place the pot on that surface and the vibration will penetrate through to the mold almost as good as the mold sitting directly on the surface.....

What pressure did you cast it at? If you still had bubbles, it may not have been high enough.
 

Pioneerpens

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Ryan, I've been working on a similar blank for some time now. I don't have the bubble issue, but I do have the seperation at the ends. Is seems like the resin lifts off the tube...I haven't figured out a solution yet, but I keep working on it...Would love to hear how you solve this, or anyone else.
 

RyanNJ

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Ryan, I've been working on a similar blank for some time now. I don't have the bubble issue, but I do have the seperation at the ends. Is seems like the resin lifts off the tube...I haven't figured out a solution yet, but I keep working on it...Would love to hear how you solve this, or anyone else.
Thanks EXACTLY What it is, it kinda looks like a bubble but it is not since it has no height it has to be because of separation, im thinking it was caused when i took it out of the mold. I will be sure to let you know if i find a solution

i casted this at 45psi
 

IPD_Mr

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Jun 27, 2007
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Zionsville, In
Your separation at the ends is cause by the fitting that is being pressed into the tube is swelling the brass tube as it goes in. This happens with almost any kit and can be avoided with a little preparation. First you will need to sand the inside of the tubes where the parts press fit into them. We use a Dremel too for this. Typically we will do this so that the part that gets pressed into the tube can be pressed in full by hand and pull apart with a little effort by hand. During final assembly we then use a couple drops of loctite to hold the pieces in place. We use this over CA because the CA tends to fume and frost the metal components.

Hope this will help you separation issue.

For the bubbles, it might help if you heat up your resin. It thins it out and helps the bubbles to move.
 

Dan_F

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Nov 8, 2007
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Well, I've done a lot of fly casting in my day, but not that kind! I think some nice, spindly soft hackle flies (hungarian partridge) would look good if you could keep the hackles flowing around the tube and not get all matted. Good luck.

Dan
 
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