First Segmented Cigar

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from THarvey

THarvey

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
2,087
Location
Anniston, AL, USA
First Herringbone segmented cigar using Canarywood, Bloodwood and Cocobolo.

The first lesson learned is I will cut the pieces thinner next time. The second is I need to build a light tent.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

2008328224525_Segmented%20Cigar%20200803.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

jhs494

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2006
Messages
566
Location
Ohio, USA.
Nice job Tim! I like it as is. This has a good look with the three different wood types, and it isn't so busy that it distracts from the grain itself.

Please keep us posted if you decide to go with thinner segments it would be nice to see them side by side.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
 

Sfolivier

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
179
Location
San Diego, CA, USA.
Very nice pen. I like it a lot. If you should try to improve one thing, it's the connection between the pieces. How did you square them and which glue did you use?
 

VisExp

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Messages
2,738
Location
Palm Coast, FL, USA.
I like your choice of woods, they combine well together. I think the pen would look good with either thick or thin segments, it would just lend a different look to the pen.

Your glue joints are very rough. What are you using to cut the segments with and what are you gluing them together with?

Depth of field: A camera can only precisely focus at one point. DOF refers to the distance before and after that point which appears to be in focus. DOF can be increased by changing the apeture on your camera. If you change the aperture from say f8 to f16 you will get a bigger DOF and more of the pen would appear to be in focus.

Looking at your picture, if you were to just rotate the pen so that it was parallel to the back of your camera then more of the pen would be within that DOF and thus in focus.

You can read more on DOF here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
 

THarvey

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
2,087
Location
Anniston, AL, USA
Originally posted by Sfolivier

Very nice pen. I like it a lot. If you should try to improve one thing, it's the connection between the pieces. How did you square them and which glue did you use?

I cut the pieces with my bandsaw and squared them with a disk sander.

The connections became rougher as I moved further away from the starting point. I think the biggest reason is I glued these freehand. I will build a jig before I try this again. Two hands just are not enough.

I glued these together with medium CA and used thin CA to fill voids while turning. A jig to clamp and hold the joints tight might have eliminated many of the voids.

Everyone, Thanks for your comments and suggestions. I still have a lot to learn.
 

VisExp

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Messages
2,738
Location
Palm Coast, FL, USA.
Tim

I don't know if you have a table saw. If you do I would use that to cut the segments. You will get a much cleaner cut. Ideally there should not be any voids to fill while turning. The two faces that are being glued together should be perfectly flat and flush to each other. If you do not have a table saw you can achieve that with the band saw and disk sander, but it will take a lot more work with the disk sander. You should be able to hold the pieces together up to a bright light and not see any gaps or light coming through.

When I am gluing wood to wood I like to use Titebond II. It does not have a very long open time, although the open time is longer than CA. Initially I would glue the pieces together using a "rub joint". You take the two pieces and rub them together for a minute or so until you feel the glue is starting to set. Then double check the alignment and start with the next rub joint. Once all the pieces are glued together you can set it in a jig and clamp it. This technique and the use of Titebond will only work if your joints are flat and flush to each other. Titebond is not a void filling glue.

Hope this helps.
 

Sfolivier

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
179
Location
San Diego, CA, USA.
"I don't know if you have a table saw. If you do I would use that to cut the segments."

I'm currently looking at getting a 7 1/4'' (or 7 1/2'' I never remember) mitter saw. Blades this size (usually for circular saws) have a rather thin kerf and a finish blade will create a perfect surface. I agree otherwise, table saw cut cleaner than a band saws. They are more dangerous (make yourself a safe jig) and waste more wood.
 
Top Bottom