First scrollsaw segment

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from igran7

igran7

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Messages
1,066
Location
Clackamas, Oregon, USA.
I recently purchased a "cheapy" scroll saw on clearance from Lowes for $10.00. Its not the best saw in the world, but for ten bucks I couldn't pass it up. This is the first blank that came out half way decent (not the saws fault). It is made of Maple & mahogony. CA finish MM to 12,000 with aluminum & ebony centerband.
 

Attachments

  • Newport segment II.jpg
    Newport segment II.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 338
  • Newport segment III.jpg
    Newport segment III.jpg
    75.5 KB · Views: 244
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

workinforwood

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
8,173
Location
Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
Looks really great Joe. Knowing how wide the tube is, and how wide the finished pen is, you can now plan your blanks. You can mark the center of the blank on 2 sides and then mark back half the width of the tube on either side of center, basically marking the width of the tube right down the middle. Any squiggles you make inside those lines will remain inside the pen. By doing that on the face, and then a side, you'll have lines on 4 sides. If you scroll outside the lines a little ways, you put a curve line on the outside of the blank, similar to what happens if you splice a thin piece into a blank on an angle. It won't take long and you can totally visualize the end result. A $10 scrollsaw is plenty good for nearly any type of pen scrolling.
 

wolftat

Product Reviews Manager
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
5,377
Location
Fairfield, CT, USA.
Joe, it looks great. A scrollsaw at that price is better than the $600 one I have that doesn't get used much. I do something like that, but I do it with a very thin blade on my bandsaw.
 

VisExp

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2007
Messages
2,738
Location
Palm Coast, FL, USA.
Nicely done Joe. The maple and mahogany go well together. I often find that to be the hardest part, choosing an inlay to match the blank.

What size blade are you using? It looks like you have matched the kerf of the blade well to the thickness of the inlay material. It won't be long and you'll have a bunch of different thickness blades on hand. Check out Mike's Workshop. I like his Ultra Reverse blades. I use the FD-UR No. 1 when doing my aluminum or brass inserts. The 0.011" kerf matches the thickness of 30 gauge aluminum/brass nicely.

edited to add: I just realized I don't know what type of blades your saw takes. The ones with the pins or the pinless. The ones from Mike's Workshop are pinless.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom