First real segmentation

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maxwell_smart007

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Here's a Sierra in bloodwood and figured maple...I'm new to segmenting, but I think it turned out ok...

ANdrew
 

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maxwell_smart007

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not really, Nick...I did a slimline back in my first few months as a penturner, but it was just little left-over blocks glued together randomly...this one was my first real 'segmentation' with a pattern...I did this one completely from start to finish, including milling the blanks....

I still have no idea what I'm doing though! I think there must be a trick that I haven't figured out...it's hard!
 

VisExp

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Nice job Andrew. You got the pattern centered nicely along the length. What glue did you use? When I am gluing wood to wood I use Titebond II. You will not get the visible glue lines that you often get using CA or Polyurenthane glue. Although I like to clamp where possible, you can get a suprisingly strong joint just using a "rub joint".
 

Mack C.

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Here's a Sierra in bloodwood and figured maple...I'm new to segmenting, but I think it turned out ok...

ANdrew
Hi Andrew; Nice idea! as well as you just turned the light bulb on in my head.

I'm waiting for my order of 10 Fishers of Men Sierra pens to arrive. I have some shorts of Bloodwood, Holly & BOW. I may try putting all 3 together in an F of M pen! Any comments?
 

leehljp

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I used thick CA, Keith...I think that I'll try it again with titebond...

I think another problem is my cheap ol' bandsaw...it's tough to get the table to exactly 90...I think the degree of slop in the table might be causing some troubles...

Glass smooth cuts help reduce glue lines, especially on end cuts. Even well sanded end cuts will often allow fibers to swell when glue is applied - creating "space" that increase the glue line.

Even on a bandsaw, a squaring jig or sled helps. I do all of my simple segments by jigs. I spent the better part of three whole days over 3 weekends just making a squaring jig that was square and guaranteed. From that, I added additional jigs to help with precision adjustments. It helps tremendously.
 
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maxwell_smart007

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Even on a bandsaw, a squaring jig or sled helps. I do all of my simple segments by jigs. I spent the better part of three whole days over 3 weekends just making a squaring jig that was square and guaranteed. From that, I added additional jigs to help with precision adjustments. It helps tremendously.

In my case, Lee, that would be like getting a front end alignment on a thirty year old Yugo. Sure, it might help a bit, but it's not going to make enough of a difference to justify the time and expense! :wink:

In my case, I can't even get the blade to track equally on the top and bottom wheels...I think it's a spacer/bushing problem, but I'm not enough of a tinkerer to be able to figure it out!

I think I just need to save up for a better bandsaw, and then make a nice jig like yours!

Andrew
 

leehljp

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Andrew,

My sled/jig is for a table saw. I made a jig on the sled with a screw adjustment for controlling the amount of cut-off. I can regulate it with 1/100 inch adjustment (actually much finer than that) with no problem. A second need is a good hold down clamp to keep segments in the right alignment as it is cut. I enjoy dreaming up jigs for months before actually buying the tool that I will use it with. If you plan on getting a larger and more accurate BS next year, now is the time to start putting the jigs together in your mind! :biggrin:
 
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