First Plastic/Acrylic/Resin or Whatever it is

[simplepens]

I was extremely timid doing this pen. I drilled the blanks at 280 rpm.(The slowest setting on my press) I didn't want a blowout. I have two celluloid blanks from CSUSA on the way for the LOML.(at her request for a pencil) I also ordered some resin from artstuf.com and some pigments. I have seen the stuff YoYoSpin and others have been doing. Gotta try it...with approval from SWCTM. Enough rambling...

The kit is black titanium from Woodcraft. I still have some work to do when it comes to finishing. I guess I need some MM. This was wet sanded to 800 grit (didn't have anything higher) and a coat of friction polish. All opinions welcome.

The wood in the background is walnut (bottom) and lacewood (top). Just in case you wanted to know.

Larry

 

[DCBluesman]

Nice job, Larry! I highly recommend Micro-Mesh to enhance your finish, although this one looks very good!

 

[jvsank]

Nice looking pen

 

[Fangar]

Originally posted by simplepens
<br />I was extremely timid doing this pen. I drilled the blanks at 280 rpm.(The slowest setting on my press) I didn't want a blowout. I have two celluloid blanks from CSUSA on the way for the LOML.(at her request for a pencil) I also ordered some resin from artstuf.com and some pigments. I have seen the stuff YoYoSpin and others have been doing. Gotta try it...with approval from SWCTM. Enough rambling...

The kit is black titanium from Woodcraft. I still have some work to do when it comes to finishing. I guess I need some MM. This was wet sanded to 800 grit (didn't have anything higher) and a coat of friction polish. All opinions welcome.

<br />

The wood in the background is walnut (bottom) and lacewood (top). Just in case you wanted to know.

Larry

Larry,

That looks real nice. Believe it or not, your are more likely to have a tear or blow out at a slower speed, both in turning and in drilling. The key to drilling Acetate or resin, is many withdrawls from the stock. Also, like I do with all of my drilling, I keep my shop vac running not only to knock out almost 100% of dust and particles, but also to extract the debris from the drill flutes upon withdrawl. Additionally, the funnel of cool air created by the vacuum helps to cool the bit.

As far as finishing, like DCBluesman said, Micro Mesh is a must. Also, some HUT friction polish, or even better, a light buff with a wheel and White Diamond buffing compound.

As far as the photo. Work on the focus a bit. I am by now means a photo expert (as you can see from some of my shots). But that would help a ton.

That really is a nice looking pen. I did one of those blanks ina cigar.

James

 

[rtjw]

Looks great. Good job.

 

[Ligget]

Great pen, superb kit/blank marriage![]

 

[simplepens]

Originally posted by Fangar


Larry,

That looks real nice. Believe it or not, your are more likely to have a tear or blow out at a slower speed, both in turning and in drilling. The key to drilling Acetate or resin, is many withdrawls from the stock. Also, like I do with all of my drilling, I keep my shop vac running not only to knock out almost 100% of dust and particles, but also to extract the debris from the drill flutes upon withdrawl. Additionally, the funnel of cool air created by the vacuum helps to cool the bit.

As far as finishing, like DCBluesman said, Micro Mesh is a must. Also, some HUT friction polish, or even better, a light buff with a wheel and White Diamond buffing compound.

As far as the photo. Work on the focus a bit. I am by now means a photo expert (as you can see from some of my shots). But that would help a ton.

That really is a nice looking pen. I did one of those blanks ina cigar.

James

Thanks for all the info James. I am not sure what I am doing wrong with the camera. I may be getting to close. I have a 3.2 MegaPixel Kodak. So, that I will work on. Sometimes an out of focus shot hides the flaws!!!!!

I seem to remember reading in a post somewhere on here that hi speed and hi heat went hand in hand. I did several extractions on each blank...probably 6-8 on each one if not more. I used water to help cool the blank and bit. Cleaned the flutes each time I withdrew the bit.

MicroMesh will certainly be bought this weekend. Maybe some plastic polish, too.

Larry

 

[Glenn McCullough]

Larry, great looking pen, I like the kit as well. One I haven't tried yet, but will.
I agree with the above people on the MM and I use Finesse-it (car polish) as a final finish on my acrylic type materials.
Glenn

 

[wayneis]

Larry I have done a lot of the acrylics and celuloids and I can tell you that if you get the MM and plastic polish you won't need friction polish. What makes friction polish work is heat and that you do not want. As far as your drilling goes you are doing just what I would recommend, slow, clear often and use water. I would also use the vacume like someone else already suggested, it will help get the turnings off the bit and help keep the bit cool. Fast speed equels heat and that can melt your nice blank, take my word for that;-) Lately I bought a buffing set-up and sometime you may want to look into that if you do not already have one because that will also help. Thats what I use as my last step now. From what I can see you are off to a good start, that pen is a good looker.

Wayne

 

[wayneis]

Oh yes I would also add that if you are not allready using a tripod then thats a must for close-up photography.

Wayne

 

[JimGo]

Larry, my own 2 cents is that MM makes a special set of sanding paper for corian and plastics. If you use that with some water (i.e. wet sand with it), the finish is great! Then, a little plastic polish (I used Hut), and it everything will sparkle.

 

[atvrules1]

Beautiful job Larry. I always like the blue acrylics. Looks very good.

 

[MDWine]

Looks GREAT Larry! Nice choice of kit for that color... nice!

 

[jdavis]

Nice Larry. Like the color and design.