First metal

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papaturner

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I found a piece of alum. in the workshop so decided to try and make a pen. This is the results. I`m not too pleased with the finish too many scratch marks. Gonna have to come up with a better way to finish. What do you think?
 

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bitshird

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Perry, Hex stock will probably have a a lot of draw or roll lines, My suggestion would be start with 220 wet or dry,lubricate with cheap oil, put it on a piece of glass or real flat wood, (glass or thick acrylic sheet,will work better rub one side at a time back and forth until the surface looks even then go to 400 grit same thing, lube with oil or even WD-40 cheap oil works better, then go to 600 same story then polish with Flitz, Brasso, even chrome polish, it should nearly blind you. or buff with tripoli and white diamond,
Nice job though..
 

NewLondon88

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I like the shape.. it has lots of potential.
Thanks for the tips, bitshird. I just opened the mail to find some of Joe's
aluminum blanks. I was wondering what I should use to finish them..

I have some Lenox cutting oil, but perhaps I should save that for something
better? I was thinking of using it on the lathe once the aluminum is turned.
I haven't done anything with aluminum yet, except to test out a new metal
lathe. Haven't made anything yet, so your timing is great for me.
 

jcollazo

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Bellflower, CA, USA.
I pulled this from the archives. JohnnyCNC used to sell aluminum blanks and here's how he finished them....

How to turn and finish,you ask?

Here is what I do:
As far as turning and polishing,it turns very easy,not much harder than a trustone or hard acrylic. Skew, gouge, scraper, take your pick! I use a 5/8" gouge to rough,and a 3/8" gouge, and rounded skew to finish.

Apply WD-40 to cuts if gummy or you are not getting nice shiny finish off the tool.

I start sanding wet with mineral spirits, to keep the aluminum from clogging the paper. I use 220, 320, 400 Norton 3x then black 600, 1200,1500, 2000 wet/dry 3M auto type paper,again, all wet, and clean with paper towel between grits. I use an old small metal coffee can
for the mineral spirits,and just dunk the paper in,to start,and to flush it off.

This can all be a little messy, but does not take long.

Then, clean off good with dry paper towel, I use Novus 2 on a small pc of folded paper towel, use a good bit of polish,s o it stays wet. wipe clean, repeat 4 or 5 times more, and using Brasso polish (I got mine at Menard's).

I repeat a couple more times.

Top off with a good wax, and buff.Repeat as needed in use.

If you are handy with an aerosol can, you can clean blank good, and top off with clear lacquer, just don't expect it to hold up forever. It is a big step above wax, though.

Have a powdercoating setup? Great,the clear powdercoat is excellent for aluminum, and should last for the life of the pen.
Sounds good to me.
 

MobilMan

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There's a tutorial in the library on Alum. pens. I started one once & sanded too far. Looked more like stainless steel than alum. Perry, did you tube the blanks? I tried wthout tubes but 1/4" is too big & 15/64 is small. Altho a 1/4' fits right in a 7mm tube. But after drilling, the hole is too big for the kit parts.
 

DozerMite

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Polishing non-ferrous materials is only a three step process and only takes about five minutes if you are set up for polishing. If you do not have the proper materials, you will never get the fine scratches out. I never touch the surface with sandpaper.
 
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jcollazo

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There's a tutorial in the library on Alum. pens. I started one once & sanded too far. Looked more like stainless steel than alum. Perry, did you tube the blanks? I tried wthout tubes but 1/4" is too big & 15/64 is small. Altho a 1/4' fits right in a 7mm tube. But after drilling, the hole is too big for the kit parts.

6.3mm is the magic drill size. Remember, they come from China:wink:
 
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