First lacquer finish

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Woodnknots

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I made this Ebony Euro for a customer. The ebony didn't seem to like to take CA, since when I when to sand with MM I got brown dust instead of white dust after I applied the CA. So I decided to try lacquer, and I think it came out pretty well. I MM'd it from 6000 to 12000 and then buffed it with Tripoli and Carnauba. I usually don't like the Euro, OR the ebony, because it's devoid of grain, for the most part, but this came out okay, I think.


2005418224152_ebonyeuro.jpg
 
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ilikewood

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Good job on probably the most difficult wood to finish. I have tried a few other finishes as well, but lacquer seems to be the only one I have tried to make them look nice. You did a great job!!
 

mick

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I've got some questions about a lacquer finish. First is DEFT a lacquer? I've seen it in a spray at WoodCrafters. Do you need to buff out after using lacquer? Somebody give me a quick rundown on a lacquer finish. THANKS! Oh yeah .....is it a lasting finish?
 

Woodnknots

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Originally posted by mick
<br />I've got some questions about a lacquer finish. First is DEFT a lacquer? I've seen it in a spray at WoodCrafters. Do you need to buff out after using lacquer? Somebody give me a quick rundown on a lacquer finish. THANKS! Oh yeah .....is it a lasting finish?
First, yes, Deft is a lacquer. You can get in a can as brushing lacquer (it can be sprayed in this form with spray equipment) or in an aerosol can. I have used Deft on furniture before, and it worked out pretty well, but I have been told that after a few years it will tend to yellow. I have a can of Watco spray lacquer that I used for this pen, and this is my basic finish steps.
1. sand with 180, 220, 240, 320, 400, and 600.
2. This time I tried CA/BLO, but it wouldn't take.
3. at SLOW speed, spray lightly with lacquer. Get a couple of light coats.
4. Let the lacquer cure for 1-2 hours (the thinner the coats, the faster the cure time. I also like to leave my turning lamp on the piece to help keep the temp steady.)
5. Sand MM from 6000-12000 (this will leave a "bumpy, uneven, finish)
6. buff at about 2600-3000 rpm with Tripoli to even out the finish, and then finish it off with a buffing wheel with carnauba on it. (I have one of the bowl buffing wheels, and I put tripoli on the outside, and carnauba on the very end of it, so I can use one wheel for both.)
 

Rifleman1776

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Elegant looking pen there. I like the Euro design, in my opinion it is a classy pen and very versitile. I haven't worked with ebony but have seen comments that it can be problematic. Since it is such a dense wood, is it possible to polish without use of any finish?
 

Woodnknots

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Originally posted by Rifleman
<br />Elegant looking pen there. I like the Euro design, in my opinion it is a classy pen and very versitile. I haven't worked with ebony but have seen comments that it can be problematic. Since it is such a dense wood, is it possible to polish without use of any finish?
I've tried to do a "non-finish" finish on ebony, and, while it CAN be done, it is hard to make it look good. It's very hard to get out all the tool/sanding marks, and even when you do, the wood is not nearly as black as it is with a finish. I've tried CA alone, I've tried BLO/CA, and neither worked out very well at all. Lacquer is the only thing I tried. The one thing I've never tried is a non-finish with only a paste wax applied. I've used paste wax on purple-heart, and it darkened the wood up nicely, and gave it a satin sheen. It has kept that sheen for the last 3 months or so. Any thoughts?
 
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