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Old 04-21-2017, 08:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default First attempt at a decal

First time adding a decal... I little CA over the top but still the decal was scraped a bit on the left side ....




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Last edited by Bob Kardell; 04-21-2017 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Great job. I didn't notice anything.
I have been doing a lot of these lately and have realized they can be a bit finicky. A couple of hints. First, take your blank all the way through your sanding steps to ensure it is very smooth. I take mine all the way through the MM but I don't use any polish. Want to ensure the water slide decal adheres. Second, try to ensure it is completely smooth and flat on the blank. I use a moistened paper towel to dab the edges. Third, let it dry completely. I wait a minimum of three hours with it sitting in direct sunlight. Overnight is even better. Finally I carefully apply 8 coats of super thin CA without accellerator waiting at least 2 minutes between coats. Then I apply 8 more coats of medium using accelerator between coats. You must be very careful with the medium to keep it as smooth as possible to reduce the amount of required sanding. I then go completely through the MM and polish of choice.
Whenever I print the water slide decals I always make a few extras of each one just in case I do sand through one. It is easy to sand it back off and start again if you have a few spares.
It's the printing the labels part that takes the longest. I let the ink dry for 24 hrs then give 4 coats of Krylon spray acrylic and another 24 hrs of drying. That's why I always make extra decals.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Nice Pen, and Water Slide Decal Bob,
Dave gave you a good breakdown on using Decals.
For what it is worth, and for use on wood, I also go through to 12000 MM.
Then I use a coat of Thin CA to seal the Wood and provide a level and solid surface for the Decal.
I would usually use the last 3 MM's before I transfer the Decal.
I have found that a drop or two of dish washing detergent, in the water for soaking the decal and for working the Decal, assists in breaking down the Surface Tension, and aids the wetting process.
I use a a fine Artist Paint Brush, to thoroughly wet the general area for the Decal, and to move the Decal if necessary, also to smooth the Decal surface, taking particular note to remove any small entrapped air bubbles, or folded edges.
I do not dry the Blank in direct Sunlight.
I let it dry in the Workshop, for at least 24 hrs, before I use Thin CA for the Final Coats, again using the higher MM depending on the obtained finish.
Then I apply a coat of Renaissance Wax.

Now back to your Pen, I also cannot see any roughness,
Excellent Fit and Finish.
Congratulations,
Brian.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Default First attempt at a decal

Thanks for the help!

On issue I had which was on the other side of the pen was when I apply the thin CA to the decal the CA wants to run to the other side of the pen and I ended up the first time with a bit of sanding on opposite side to get rid of the CA which had accumulated.... when you coat the decal with the CA how do you prevent the accumulation on the other side of the blank? Do you apply the thin CA while turning? I was worried about smearing the decal ...

It wasn't much but there is an uneven spot under the clip.

Thanks for the suggestions and the help!!


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Last edited by Bob Kardell; 04-28-2017 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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[quote=Bob Kardell;1920000]Thanks for the help!

On issue I had which was on the other side of the pen was when I apply the thin CA to the decal the CA wants to run to the other side of the pen and I ended up the first time with a bit of sanding on opposite side to get rid of the CA which had accumulated.... when you coat the decal with the CA how do you prevent the accumulation on the other side of the blank? Do you apply the thin CA while turning? I was worried about smearing the decal ...

It wasn't much but there is an uneven spot under the clip.

Thanks for the suggestions and the help!!

Hi Bob,
You don't just apply CA over the Decal.

Just to set the scene, and to make sure we are on the same page.

You apply the Decal to the Blank, prior to Assembly of the Pen.

And you will apply the Thin CA with your lathe turning at a slow speed.

Before applying the CA, leave the Blank with the Decal, at least overnight, or preferably longer to Dry, take into account particularly the Humidity that you have in your area and shop .
I recall the amount of water I used to get in my Humidifier when I lived in Pennsylvania, over the Summer's.

To apply the CA, I mount the Blank, using Deldrin 60 deg Cones on each end of the Blank, (as the CA will not Stick the Blank to the Deldrin Cones), and my "A size" mandrel, on my lathe.

Then, while rotating the Blank at a slow speed, I spread several drops of thin CA onto a 4 folded Wad of "Quality" Kitchen Paper, Sheet, then quickly apply the wet CA to the underside of the turning Blank, moving it from one end to the other.
If I feel any slight drag, I then spread a few drops, along the turning blank, and wipe them with the Folded Paper wad.
I then let it continue turning for say around 10 minutes.
Then stop the Lathe, and lightly touch the CA with a small edge along side the nail of my Index Finger, to see if it is Wet or Dry.
Once there is no transfer or shining deposit on my finger, that is the coat is touch Dry, I repeat the process, of depositing Coats of Thin CA, three to four times, until I am satisfied that I have given it a substantial and adequate coverage.

I then transfer the blank, off the lathe to a clean, dust free area, and let it harden for at least 24 hours.
Once Hardened, I then review the Finish, Optically and by Feel, to determine what type Abrasive and Grit to use, to commence the Finishing.

Normally I will go straight to Micro Mesh.
If I feel any course area's on the Blank, I will lightly go through all the Micro Mesh Grades.
If however, it is quite smooth, I will start somewhere in the Middle of the range.
Again another, Examination and Feel, will determine if I need to give any more coats of CA.

If not, I then apply a coat of Renaissance Wax (a Micro-Crystalline Wax) that resists finger marks, and surface deterioration, as well as imparting a high Sheen, and Very Tactile Touch.
Then I assemble the Pen, after I have cleaned the inside of the Blank Tubes, and deburr the ends of the Tubes.
This is to ensure that no CA or other contaminates exist in the area's to which you are going to Press the Pen Kit Components, and the Deburring is to ensure that the Tube ends have a "lead in" for the Pressing Operation.

Using this, or a similar process, you will have distributed the CA evenly over the Entire Blank, and Similarly when you have sanded, you will have sanded evenly over the Entire Blank.
Hence, the only way you will Damage the Decal, is if you remove too much CA, in the Sanding or Finishing Operations.

I re Read your Concerns. And noticed I didn't address, with regard to smearing the Decal.
I take it that you are Spraying the Decal with Krylon or similar Fixing after Printing as recommended by the Water Slide Decal Providers.
If so you have no worries about the Printer Ink Smearing, as you have sealed it with the Krylon Fixing Lacquer, and the CA will not affect Dry Fixing Lacquer.

Some Turners, will also use a Buffing System with Abrasives Solutions or Pastes, on a Rotating Buff. I have not found that necessary, so I can't add any comments on the Pro's or Con's of Buffing.

I trust that this "Manifesto" Addresses your Concerns , and that I have adequately described the Processes that I use.
If you have any further questions, or want any more information, you know where to contact me.
Regards,
Brian.
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Last edited by OZturner; 04-28-2017 at 05:25 AM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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That is some great stuff there from Brian.
You should also check out the decal tutorial in the library.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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This is how I apply and finish my Testors Waterslide Decals.

Les
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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As one who has done hundreds of decal pens you will do well following the instructions on this post. That and practice!
As an aside I just received an order for a Nebraska pen with the same logo you used. I only do colleges and sports with a special order. Don't want to get into trouble with the licensing police.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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What brand of Decal Paper do you Guys use?
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Thank you again for the help! I used decals that I purchased from Mud Hole - in another post somewhere I saw someone else had purchased theirs from them.

I had not tried the Krylon as I had thought the only necessary with the Testors decals - but I will try that next time!

One note about Mudhole is that the decals are officially licensed so I don't have to worry about the copyright issues!

Thanks again - off to try another!


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