Ebonized Circles in a Forest

[VisExp]

A recent article in one of the many woodworking magazines I subscribe to really caught my attention. The article was on ebonizing wood. The author outlined a process that lets you ebonize most woods, not just those that are high in tannin.

This was my first attempt with it. Ebonized maple with aluminum inlays on an Elegant Sierra.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

[wolftat]

That looks great Keith. How long does the process take?

 

[akbar24601]

Keith, that is cool as all get out!!!! Hard to believe that is Maple we're lookin' at! I do see what you mean about the aluminum though. Still, FABULOUS!!!

Keep at it, I know that you will just keep getting better and better at it!

BTW, are you trying to adopt your way in to my family now too!!! LOL

 

[ed4copies]

VERY nice, Keith.

Certainly more reliable than ebony!!

 

[CSue]

Thats beautiful. What a great idea! There are times I'd like to use ebony and can't get any.

Really beautiful!

 

[maxman400]

WOW!!! Really nice Pen.

 

[BLLEHMAN]

Very nice!

 

[rjwolfe3]

Awesome pen, I don't want a tutorial on the "ebonized" process but can you pm me some hints.

 

[bitshird]

Keith, that's a sharp pen, Maple has to be more stable than Ebony and a lot cheaper than IBO, Great job, some how there has to be a way to sand a blank that has aluminum inlays, with out smearing it all over the wood.

 

[JohnU]

Nice work Keith! Great looking pen. The nice looking contrast between the wood with aluminum and that kit.

 

[VisExp]

That looks great Keith. How long does the process take?

One week, fifteen minutes and 45 seconds :biggrin:

A week to dissolve the steel wool in the vinegar, 45 seconds to make up the "bark tea" and fifteen minutes to apply it all.

I do see what you mean about the aluminum though. Still, FABULOUS!!!

Keep at it, I know that you will just keep getting better and better at it!

BTW, are you trying to adopt your way in to my family now too!!! LOL

Dad :wink:, I sent an e-mail to the guy who wrote the article. Got a very nice reply with some great suggestions as to how I can resolve that. I plan on trying them out.

Awesome pen, I don't want a tutorial on the "ebonized" process but can you pm me some hints.

Here you go Rob

http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/24/ebonizing/

I'm working on a PDF to put in the library.

 

[akbar24601]

some how there has to be a way to sand a blank that has aluminum inlays, with out smearing it all over the wood.

Hey Ken. Keith and I were talking about that very thing today and we are thinking that once you get your blank turned down to its sanding size, go ahead and give it a good coating of thin CA to help seal up the grain. Then go ahead and sand away and the aluminum should not present quite so much trouble.

 

[artme]

Lovely pen Keith!!:star::star::star:

 

[David M]

that is vere nicly done ... i like itt

 

[cnirenberg]

Keith,
Wow it is hard to believe that is "just" Maple. Great looking pen, and cool article on your blog. Thanks for the insights.

 

[workinforwood]

That looks really great Keith. What's the smearing on the aluminum?

 

[skiprat]

Another piece of precision.:biggrin: I really like the match with the kit too:wink:

Keith, that's a sharp pen, Maple has to be more stable than Ebony and a lot cheaper than IBO, Great job, some how there has to be a way to sand a blank that has aluminum inlays, with out smearing it all over the wood.

I couldn't tell the difference between Maple, Ebony or Balsa wood, but the rest of your comment would REALLY make a great topic for a 'Think Tank':biggrin:

 

[jleiwig]

Awesome work Keith!

I saw that article and plan on trying it on a poker table I'm building for a friend.

I plan on ebonizing oak and using a red pore filler to give it a killer look of suble red in the grain and black everywhere else.

 

[pipecrafter]

You can also use regular old tannin/tannic acid available from any homebrew store or home winemaking store. Most homebrew outlets carry the J.D. Carlson brand of tannin powder. Use it exactly the same as you do the bark powder.

This exact process can be use to create absolutely stunning high-contrast finishes in woods that are otherwise somewhat unremarkable, making the grain absolutely pop with detail best descibed as 'psychadelic'. Burls are especially good candidates for this, since the birdseyes and varigation become incredibly strong, and won't be affected by other stains.

 

[wolftat]

Keith, if you want to speed up the process a little, you can do what you have been doing and then follow it up with a wipe with some tannic acid, it was the way we did it a long time ago. The steel wool sounds like a great idea, we used any old rusty piece of iron sitting arouns and the strained it out.

 

[jleiwig]

Keith, if you want to speed up the process a little, you can do what you have been doing and then follow it up with a wipe with some tannic acid, it was the way we did it a long time ago. The steel wool sounds like a great idea, we used any old rusty piece of iron sitting arouns and the strained it out.

The bark powder is the same as tannic acid. Usually it's oak bark that has been used to make the powder. :biggrin:

For the size of my project I think I'm going to stick to dyes.