Ebonite kitless click

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frank123

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Feb 5, 2012
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The first kitless click I've made with ebnite, and only two others before this to experiment with the click mechanism to get the hand of a clickless click (I figured out it's all about very careful measurement).

Emerald green swirl ebonite from Exotic blanks (used 4.25 inches but some of that was cleanup of the ends to exact length), a very fine click mechanism form Indy Pen Dance, a clip that came from I don't know what but have a number of them from somewhere, the center coulping and nib cone from brass stock and chrome plated using a copy chrome formula from Caswell and my own plating rig, and a tiny bit of nylon rod scrap.

Only thing unique (to me) about this is this is the first pen I designed with a CAD program and it uses either a G2 or Uniball refill interchangeably and was designed to use a parker refill with an adaptor but I haven't tried this yet. Also my first shot at plating. the click mechanism was chrome or SS so I had do go that color.

OAL of pen 137.1mm, dia 10.9mm, weight 24gm.

P1010019.JPG P1010020.JPG P1010021.JPG

My learning from thispen (which is what I find the interesting part of penmaking): CAD design, designing to use multiple different refills, plating parts and making the plating aparatus and the voltage and current controlled power supply, and additional experience with Ebonite which I really like but can't afford a lot of.

Total cost ot his pen -ignoring labor- was around 11 dollars (without figuring it exactly) and would be around 7 or 8 using my home cast resin instead of Ebonite. Something I can easily justify to myself for a hobby.
 
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BSea

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Dec 28, 2009
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Very nice job. I've been thinking of doing one similar either using the adapter from an older sierra click. But I like the idea of using the rollerball. As long as it didn't go long between uses, I don't think it would dry out. I'm really interested in the plating process, and I wonder if you could do a gold plating on the click mechanism to have a gold version of the pen. And I wonder just how long the chrome plating will last. But either way, very nice job.:good:

Have you thought about gluing one side of the centerband, so it only will unscrew from 1 part of the barrel? Just a thought.
 

frank123

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Feb 5, 2012
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Colorado
Very nice job. I've been thinking of doing one similar either using the adapter from an older sierra click. But I like the idea of using the rollerball. As long as it didn't go long between uses, I don't think it would dry out. I'm really interested in the plating process, and I wonder if you could do a gold plating on the click mechanism to have a gold version of the pen. And I wonder just how long the chrome plating will last. But either way, very nice job.:good:

Have you thought about gluing one side of the centerband, so it only will unscrew from 1 part of the barrel? Just a thought.

Not sure about gold plating but I don't see why not, Caswell sells the solution -the whole kit- but it's a bit above my price range to just experiment with.

Both the G2 and the Uniball come in click versions so I don't anticipate a problem without frequent use, and they are Gel (best ink for tamper proof writing on checks and documents) so I don't think it would matter the same as it would with a regular fountain pen ink rollerball.

I took the pictures before gluing the parts in to show the different parts, the coupler is locktighted to the upper body and the nib cone to the lower one. I thought about using the nib for changing cartridges but decided the chance of losing the spring would be minimized if it is taken apart at the middle. Not a big deal, just what I did.
 

frank123

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Feb 5, 2012
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Colorado
Love this pen. Would like to know where you got the nose cones.

Phil

Made them out of brass round bar and plated them.

Used 8mm x .75 threading on them, smallest I felt comfortable with since the through bore on the connector and the initial step bore into the nib cone is a 6.2 mm to accept the G2 and Uniball refills.
 

frank123

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Colorado
Nicely done :)

are you brush or tank plating?


Actually, I tried both with about equal end results. The tank plating -a very small pill bottle sized tank- was much faster and easier, I had to redo the brush plating once to get the hang of it and it doesn't seem to want to get into the threads easily (but they don't show anyway so I wasn't particularly concerned). Of course, since it was a first try I may have just gotten lucky, I'll find out next time I guess.
 

firewhatfire

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Mar 7, 2011
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Columbiana, Alabama
Love this pen. Would like to know where you got the nose cones.

Phil

Made them out of brass round bar and plated them.

Used 8mm x .75 threading on them, smallest I felt comfortable with since the through bore on the connector and the initial step bore into the nib cone is a 6.2 mm to accept the G2 and Uniball refills.

Well I could turn those. I don't know about doing plating. Guess I need to learn something new.

Thanks for the info.

Phil
 

BradG

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Jul 10, 2011
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Blackpool -UK
Tank plating is much more durable than brush plating, due to the thickness being atleast 4 times greater over 40 minutes, compared to 20 minutes of continuous brush plating, and thats even presuming we were to brush it all over evenly. i used to find i got lost onced a thin layer had been brushed on! can be challenging to keep moving around the piece evenly.

There are some pit falls to tank plating though. There's an alot smaller margin for error. if you find the plating peeling, it wasnt clean enough. If you find the plating clumping on the surface and looking rough, the currents too high. Also, you will have been advised an mA per square inch for working out your currents. keep in mind this varies depending on the type of power supply you have.

Looks great though :)

nicely done
 
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