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ctEaglesc

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"Same Pen"
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First I'd like thank everyone who made comments ,suggestions and to Grizz especially for doing the Photo work that is beyond me.I had already modified the pen based on some of the suggestions that were made in the previous thread/post.
Rather than reply in the original thread I decided to start a new one as the intention of this post is to focus on the concept of modification rather than appearance.( woods, shape,finish,clip and in a small way CB.)
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Comments/criticisms are still welcomed and appreciated.(sometimes adopted or adapted depending which key I hit):D)
Simple pens or is it Dr.Phil?-In other words, What were you thinking?My immediate reaction when I finished turning the original pen was "look at the grain!"I wanted to show as much as possible and since the design was mine I did.That is the reason for the smaller clip and the "barrel shaped top".In retrospect, like a magician I erroniously diverted your attention away from what I wanted you to see.
Tom-I would have rather used the Perfect fit for the modification but there were issues I was uncomfortable with.They are not insurrmountable but I worked with what I had on hand. The Perfect fit tops' transmission engages in the bottom of the "cap holder finial" much like the American classic but more forgiving.The tube in the P.F. is shorter than the one in the components I used and does not support the lower section of the top barrel. If you look at the instructions on the SL longwood the tube on the top extends over the transmission which is the same as the PK MON PAR.This gives the pen rigidity that you won't have with the PF.I could have used the clip only but that would have meant scavenging a clip, finial and stud from $7.00 "kit" to make a pen that I was using to keep economical in the first place.(I don't know why custom clips are not available for pens te size of a PF, American Classic but they are not.In lots of 10 the PKMONPAR is $3.30. from Woodturningz.I think that is a great price for a pen that utilizes a Parker refill and can accept a gel refill.
I used the gold CB for reasons of strutural integrity also.The other reason for the gold band is I wanted to make the pen with all supplied components changing only one piece and to show how easily the over all look of the pen can be transformed.
My choice of woods is inconsequential as it is a matter of personal choice.Since I was confident in my idea I just "went for it" and used one of the nicest blanks I had rather than experiment with a lesser quality wood, or manmade material.I chose the Wenge for the same reason. I used an exotic hardwood for the top and I thought the same quality should be on the bottom.The alfthzilya(whatever!)x-y lay was given to me by Lou months ago and it is not in my "general stash".
I could have used "blackwood" or ebony but I believe I have a tendency to use it too often and want to try something dark but not necessarily a solid wood.I can always make a new lower section as this modification is repeatble.
Chuck- the dimensions of the lower piece are not important as to the length.The tube is 2&3/8ths for the Parker refill on this pen(I think)The one thing you need to keep in mind is whatever you take off the bottom needs to be replaced at the top.Until you reach the point that the transmission hits the finial holder.There you can take up the slack by adding a CB but it will not have a tube in it unless you waste a PF tube. They are perfect to fit over an 8mm tube but I believe they are proprietary to the "B" company.If I run across a tube that will have the same fit at a hobby store I will use it.
One more word about the CB.The top tube does not extend all the way to the bottom of the top blank.There needs to be clearance so the transmission holder and transmission can make contact with the 8mm tube in the top of the pen to extend the refill.
There is a clearance issue that needs to be dealt with also.When gluing in the top tube it is inserted from the top down.There was glue reside that needed to be removed so the transmission worked smoothly.
There you have it, with changes made as suggested pertaining to the shape of the upper section.
(My point in doing this is if I can make a "longwood" pen with a Parker refill why can't the manufacterers supply one to give us another style to offer customers? On second thought I'll just use my $3.30 "kit" for now)
Also why is there not a "Parker Style Kit" that is as easily modifyable and customizeable as a slimline?Why Can't I get custom clips for an 8mm pen barrel other than Euro style?(bigger dia)


For comparison,
A "longantler from a $2.00 slimline using a Cross refill along side an"Eaglaized"eurostyle longwood from a $3.30 "kit" that takes Parker refill.( interesting what a $1.30 will do) plus the cost of the smaller clip.


2005614182042_friendshiplongwoodpartake2%20010.jpg



As always, trying to think "outside the box" whether I "hit the mark" or not, I will always fall short if I don't try. Eagle
 
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Old Griz

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Eagle, the slimmer upper barrel and straighter lower barrel make a big big difference in the pen.. it now looks more elegant instead of "clunky", if you will excuse the term... it is a shame that you can't find a better clip and centerband to really make this a truly elegant pen...
Nice re-modification of the original modification... HUH!!. does that make sense..[:p][:p]
 

JimGo

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Eagle, that looks much better. How does it feel? It looks like there would be a lot of weight in the upper half of the pen, which might make the balance a little "off", but it is hard to get a good size perspecitve from the picture. I also don't know how dense Afzylia Xylay (or however you spell it) is, especially in comparison to something like Wenge. The reason I mention this is that by using a more dense wood near the tip and a less dense wood (e.g., something spalted) at the top, you might be able to further impact the balance.

Just the rambling thoughts of a humble novice. (alright, maybe not so humbe, but still very much a novice!)
 

melogic

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Fantastic job Eagle! I love the way your hands tell us what your mind is thinking. I love to see your designs on pen kits that I do according to the instructions. I think you have a true gift or art for pushing the envelope and coming up with a beautiful work of art.
 

C_Ludwigsen

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Way cool. Much better aesthetically. I think I understand how the transmission slides up into the upper barrel (upper tube short / lower barrel short with longer tube, correct?). I'll have to checkout a PKMONT-PAR kit at home tonight to understand fully. I thought the coupling (that the transmission screws into) had a ring the same diameter as the bushing size.

Nice out of the box design. I like the option of having alternate style Designer mods.
 

Darley

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Thanks for the " how to do it explanation " the re-modelling look much better and I like the concept, you should patent the idea and sell to CSUSA or PSI and live on ROYALTY[:D], Bravo.
 

simplepens

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Okay Eagle, I've watched a few Dr. Phil episodes. I know I've done a few pens, looked at them afterward and wondered what the h*** I was thinking. The new and improved version is much better. Just my novice opinion. (and I do mean novice.) Your pens always inspire me to do better with mine.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by C_Ludwigsen
<br />Way cool. Much better aesthetically. I think I understand how the transmission slides up into the upper barrel (upper tube short / lower barrel short with longer tube, correct?). I'll have to checkout a PKMONT-PAR kit at home tonight to understand fully. <b> I thought the coupling (that the transmission screws into) had a ring the same diameter as the bushing size.</b>Nice out of the box design. I like the option of having alternate style Designer mods.
Correction, it "used" to have a ring the size of the bushing, I aint giving it to you on a silver platter.
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Do I have to turn my signature back on?
<b>Caution! Thought process required.</b>
 

C_Ludwigsen

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[:D] Understood. I thought it did and am home now to examine it closer. I'll go work on the 'figure out how to remove the ring withough destroying it' problem.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by C_Ludwigsen
<br />[:D] Understood. I thought it did and am home now to examine it closer. I'll go work on the 'figure out how to remove the ring withough destroying it' problem.
Carefully!(and so you don't waste a "kit" for the sake of one component.
Make sure you leave a "shoulder" on transmission holder( remainder of the gold ring) when you put the ring on a screw driver and angle it into the direction of your belt sander with a fine grit sandpaper belt, the same way I scuff my tubes but I am not gong to tell you how I do it.( hint , hint) And you might take an old transmission or at least some masking tape to protect the threads.(
All right my conscience got to me!
 

alamocdc

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I still like it, Eagle, but I have to admit that it does look better with the upper barrel narrowed a bit. And I think I understand now! [:D] But we'll have to wait until I get home to find out. [;)]
 

Scott

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Eagle.

I want to chime in here. This is a case where simpler is better. This straighter, unadorned version just comes across so much better. I am very impressed with this pen! Thanks for showing it!

Scott.
 

atvrules1

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Eagle, after comparing the before and after post. I really like the modifications and feel that the look flows a lot better. Your choice of woods really works for me. Very impressive. Thank you for trying new ideas on routine kits. It sure opens up the limits for the rest of us.
 

timdaleiden

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Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />"Same Pen"
Rather than reply in the original thread I decided to start a new one as the intention of this post is to focus on the <b>concept of modification</b> rather than appearance.( woods, shape,finish,clip and in a small way CB.)
I used the gold CB for reasons of strutural integrity also.The other reason for the gold band is I wanted to make the pen with all supplied components changing only one piece and to show how easily the over all look of the pen can be transformed.

As a concept pen, it has potential. The more I look at it, the more I think the CB has to go. It reminds me of teen brats wearing their jeans somewhere below their waste, but above their knees.

For structural integrity, you could use an oversize brass tube in the upper, and then glue the proper size tube inside of it (where you need it) to catch the transmission. Wouldn't that work?

Once the CB is gone, you could go anywhere you want to with shape.
 

timdaleiden

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Originally posted by atvrules1
<br />Eagle, after comparing the before and after post. I really like the modifications and feel that the look flows a lot better.

Ok, now I am confused. Several people seem to be seeing the pen as being different in the second picture. I can't see any difference, other than a slight change in perspective. Am I missing something?[?]
 

C_Ludwigsen

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Tim, compare the images here with the one in this thread to see the differences folks are referring to...

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7151
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by timdaleiden
<br />
Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />"Same Pen"
Rather than reply in the original thread I decided to start a new one as the intention of this post is to focus on the <b>concept of modification</b> rather than appearance.( woods, shape,finish,clip and in a small way CB.)
I used the gold CB for reasons of strutural integrity also.The other reason for the gold band is I wanted to make the pen with all supplied components changing only one piece and to show how easily the over all look of the pen can be transformed.

As a concept pen, it has potential. The more I look at it, the more I think the CB has to go. It reminds me of teen brats wearing their jeans somewhere below their waste, but above their knees.

For structural integrity, you could use an oversize brass tube in the upper, and then glue the proper size tube inside of it (where you need it) to catch the transmission. Wouldn't that work?

Once the CB is gone, you could go anywhere you want to with shape.
That MIGHT work though I don't like to glue bass to brass.
The only tube I know of that would work as you descrided is the one for the upper barrel in a Perfect Fit.
You may have missed the part in the original post where I did say if I found a tube at a hobby store ( or anywhere for that matter I would try it)
I usually think things out pretty well before I attempt them.
Also the addition of other components would "diminish" what I was trying to accomplish.Taking a regular set of supplied components as to alter the appearance of the final look of the pen without the addition of other parts.
 

Old Griz

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Eagle.. Bill B sells spare tubes for the PF for $0.49 a set... that should do what you want without sending you to the poor house running all over town to find the "right" craft shop tubing..
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />Eagle.. Bill B sells spare tubes for the PF for $0.49 a set... that should do what you want without sending you to the poor house running all over town to find the "right" craft shop tubing..
Griz,It is not the cost, I have extra tubes.
This is not meant to be a"malicious" reply so please don't take it that way.
I have modified a few kits and a great deal of thought goes into the selection of what kits are "modifyable"
I certainly have not done them all.
Since this was a PSI "kit" I tried to use PSI components.
From the replies that have been posted I can tell that some still don't understand what I did.
I asked Fritz at Woodturningz yeterday how much their Parker style long wood kits cost.
After a "let me check" and a couple of seconds, I got a reply "we don't have one". I told him I knew that.
There aren't many who turn the PF from what I have seen, you do and so do I. HOw often do you see one posted on this forum?I wanted to post this modification so those that might have a "designer" kit handy(like Chuck) might decide to try one.
With the advent of new members and people just starting to turn pens, they may not have tubes laying around or have realized the benifit ofordering "extras".
With out going into great detail there is another consideration.The Top tube for the PF is used on a "B" mandrel. The problem isn't insurrmountable but a separate sleeve would have to be turned as the bushings for the PF kits are different.
You could turn it from another standpoint, use the "B" mandrel and make a different bushing or find a bushing from another "kit" that uses a "B" mandrel.
If that last explanation sounded complicated to you who has been making and successfully selling pens and other woodwork for some time, can you imagine what it might be like for a new pen turner to understand what we are speaking of,especially if they are not familiar with PSI productsor "B" mandrels from the"b" company.
Remember,(and I am quoting your conversation with Jim Hunsinger from Berea)
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"Most of the people out there in the online groups should not even be turning pens."
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( tongue in cheek)
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yellowlaugh.gif

<b>I added that as a facetious remark,just so the intention is not misunderstood note the laughing smiley</b>
I wanted to use the K.I.S.S.method and certainly anyone who attempts this will come up with their own improvements or may decide the effort to figure out how to use the existing bushings and standard mandrel to turn the "Eagleized Paarker Longwood" isn't worth it.
There is tweaking necessary after the pen is turned finished and assembled.
This is not meant to be a tutorial on how to do the modification, just an example of what can be done with an existing set of components.
So far all the suggestions concerning mechanical design have already been run through my head before I even made the original pen monday nite.
That is not to say that there hasn't been interesting ones but I have already thought of what has been posted.
I used what I had at hand much like someone who isn't a "collector" might have ,even though I am one.
I wrote earlier that I considered the P.F. for this design but I ruled it out for various reasons.
Here's a challenge, Why not try it yourself with a PF "kit"?
Maybe I am wrong , possibly it is suitable.
It is one thing to customize a "kit" for your own use but another if you intend to market it.
Again, no malice intended.In essence the suggestions of how to make what I already have made, other than shape,finish, or esthetics is really a little off topic in this forum and if I wanted suggestions as to how to improve the mechanical modification I would have posted it in Penturning.
Truth be known, It was I who suggested the "Critique" forum to Jeff but the original idea was a forum for a "testing zone" that would have been specifically for modifcations such as this or alternative materials like the denim pen...
That may have been a better venue for suggestions as to how to improve the finished product that has been made from an existing kit or even used components from multiple "kits".
Even what I have written in this post possibly quite doesn't belong here.
Critques regarding the pen itself still are grealy appreciated.
NOTE; The "longwood" made from the slimline kit in the instructions I posted from the PSI site on the previous thread do not require an additional tube.
Had I added and accent band on top of the Wenge the subject of the gold band and subsequent posts as to how to improve my transformation may have never come up.
Mea Culpa,Mea Culpa,Mea Culpa.
To anyone who wants to try this there will be issues you may need to deal with as you go along.I suggest you look at the instructions on the PSi site for the "concept" of this design and maybe even convert a "lowly slimline" before attempting this one.
If you have any <b>SPECIFIC</b> questions about how to do something feel free to e-mail me.I will not do a general tutorial, but if I have run into a similar situation that is hanging you up I will be glad to offer any solutions I ran across that worked for me.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by cteaglesc<br />...That MIGHT work though I don't like to glue bass to brass...

You could solder the two brass tubes together and I'll bet JB Weld would not come loose either.
I was asked to edit my original remarks and as a rule I don't do that.I am man enough to stand my what I say.,In this case I will make an exception
<b>You are welcome to test your suggestion and post a picture of your attempt in your album, I am sure others are as interested in seeing it as much as I am.</b>
 

woodguy1975

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Originally posted by Randy_
<br />
Originally posted by cteaglesc<br />...That MIGHT work though I don't like to glue bass to brass...

You could solder the two brass tubes together and I'll bet JB Weld would not come loose either.

What part of "using only the kit components from the PKMONTPAR" was not understood? What Eagle is attempting is great. To take a single kit and totally transform the look without adding any extra parts or cost to the pen is a terrific exercise of creativity and design. It is something we all should be doing. Keep it going Eagle.

John
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by timdaleiden
<br />
Originally posted by woodguy1975

What part of "using only the kit components from the PKMONTPAR" was not understood? John

John, the pocket clip is not from that kit.
It is now,and so you are not mistaken only the clip was changed to protect the nitpickers.
 

timdaleiden

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Originally posted by cteaglesc
<br />
Originally posted by timdaleiden
<br />
Originally posted by woodguy1975

What part of "using only the kit components from the PKMONTPAR" was not understood? John

John, the pocket clip is not from that kit.
It is now,and so you are not mistaken only the clip was changed to protect the nitpickers.

Nitpicker? <b>Nitpicker?</b> Ya', guilty as charged. Just trying to keep it real.
 

DCBluesman

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Eagle--I hope you learned two things from this pen. First, no matter how well you do something there will always be someone out there to tell you how to do it better...generally they will not have tried it at all [:D]....and second, do not listen to me about shapes and clips. [:p] I like the "hip-hugger" pants look of this modification and as soon as I figure out how to do one I'm going to make the "Britney Spears" model! [8D]
Originally posted by JimGo
<br />It looks like there would be a lot of weight in the upper half of the pen, which might make the balance a little "off", but it is hard to get a good size perspecitve from the picture.
Jim--balance in the hand is not determined by the balance between the upper and lower barrel. It's a matter of the weight above and below where the pen hits the crease between the thumb and index finger.
 
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Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />......balance in the hand is not determined by the balance between the upper and lower barrel. It's a matter of the weight above and below where the pen hits the crease between the thumb and index finger.....

Very interesting.

I have not been making pens all that long and I never really considered balance since I mostly "stay within the lines". I would be interested on different perspectives on how folks determine the correct "balance" of a pen.
 

JimGo

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Originally posted by DCBluesman
Jim--balance in the hand is not determined by the balance between the upper and lower barrel. It's a matter of the weight above and below where the pen hits the crease between the thumb and index finger.

Lou,
I agree. I thought it looked like there would be a fair amount of the pen that stuck out behind the point where I imagined my hand would fall. It's hard to judge the size of the pen from the picture, so I'll be the first to concede that I may be off by a LOT, but my guesstimate was that, with the way I hold a pen, the pen body would hit my hand just above the centerband, approximately where the first of two "highlights" are in the wood on that barrel (you can see the highlights better in Eagle's first pic). I haven't done a MontPar, so I don't know the relative weights of the tip and clip, but I was guessing that they were pretty close (especially with that big finial), and that the transmission was pretty much where my hand would be (as was the CB), so that the pen would effectively be balanced out if the same wood was used throughout and the tip and clip/finial were the same distance from the point where the pen hit my hand. That would leave the wood as the primary determining factor in the overall balance. I tend to like a pen that is a little "tip heavy", but I'm also one of those ballpoint people who mashes the pen into the paper, rather than a fountain pen person. Based on the earlier comment about the relative weight of Afzelia (sp?) compared to Wenge, I'd bet this one is probably a nicely balanced pen.

Eagle, care to send it to me for a "long-term test drive"? [:D]
 

DCBluesman

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The PKMONTPAR is 5-3/8" long or about 1/4" longer than a standard slimline. If the "v" between your thumb and index finger hits near the center of a slimline, it won't be noticeably different on this pen. The balance point on this and most other kits is just slightly nib-side of center, allowing the pen to gently rest on the paper (until us heavy-pawed Americans jam the point into the paper). This will vary a bit based on the cut of the barrels as well as the weight of the material used for the barrels.
 
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