Closed Ended Malachite Jr. Statesman Fountain Pen

[wizard]

Made it this A.M. It's Malachite Tru-Stone from Exotics on a Jr. Statesman Fountain Pen. I made it a closed ended pen. It's my first closed ended Tru-Stone. The bottom barrel is a little longer than I would have liked. Anyway, I hope you like it. Comments welcome and most of all thank you for looking. Regards, Doc

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Very nicely done! I too have made one from Malachite, maybe my all time favorite tru stone!!


I find when I make solid end pens the bodies do get longer so we can safely support the length we need for the refill or pump. I have found that I can shorten the cap as well, this difference can keep the over all pen nearly the same length, but also give the balance the writer wants in the un posted pen body. I have done this for three years and the results are better than I expected.

 

[G1Pens]

Absolutely beautiful. I would buy that !! Green is one fo my favorites and I love Malachite (especially with a grandson named Malachi) My new goal it to make a pen like that. It will be a while, but one day I will do it.

 

[dow]

Wizard, that's a mighty fine looking pen. I need to get some of that malachite trustone.

... I have found that I can shorten the cap as well, this difference can keep the over all pen nearly the same length, but also give the balance the writer wants in the un posted pen body. I have done this for three years and the results are better than I expected.

Interesting, Jim. How much have you been able to shorten the caps on your closed-end pens? Does it make a difference if you're doing a rollerball of fountain pen?

Thanks,
Dow

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Wizard, that's a mighty fine looking pen. I need to get some of that malachite trustone.

... I have found that I can shorten the cap as well, this difference can keep the over all pen nearly the same length, but also give the balance the writer wants in the un posted pen body. I have done this for three years and the results are better than I expected.

Interesting, Jim. How much have you been able to shorten the caps on your closed-end pens? Does it make a difference if you're doing a rollerball of fountain pen?

Thanks,
Dow

Almost 1/4 inch. I check with the nib lengtth on a finished pen, you can get deeper than you think.

I also only use the first 1" of the full sized kit body tube, drill full with the kit size to about 1 1/8 depth then the full length with the 7 MM to 2 7/8". I epoxy the full length tube in the body, then trim the excess tube off after turning the finished body on the mandrel. This gives me more options for body shapes, leaving more "meat" on the blank to thin out...

 

[dow]

Thanks, Jim. That's VERY good info to have. You've got some fine pens on your website, by the way.

Dow

 

[OLDMAN5050]

good looking pen nice choice of kit and blank

 

[cnirenberg]

That's a beauty. I love the Malachite. That's on the "get around to it" list for sure.

 

[bobjackson]

That's a good looking pen.

 

[Drstrangefart]

Where in the Wide World Of Sports do you KEEP getting these different grades of Kryptonite??????? THAT'S IT!!! I'm calling Batman.......

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Wizard, that's a mighty fine looking pen. I need to get some of that malachite trustone.

... I have found that I can shorten the cap as well, this difference can keep the over all pen nearly the same length, but also give the balance the writer wants in the un posted pen body. I have done this for three years and the results are better than I expected.

Interesting, Jim. How much have you been able to shorten the caps on your closed-end pens? Does it make a difference if you're doing a rollerball of fountain pen?

Thanks,
Dow

I hope that helps, that's just how I do it...

 

[philb]

Not normally a fan of the non-wooden pens, but thats a stunner!

phil

 

[tim self]

A VERY nice looking pen. I prefer a longer body on the closed ends. Excellent execution.

 

[wizard]

Wizard, that's a mighty fine looking pen. I need to get some of that malachite trustone.

... I have found that I can shorten the cap as well, this difference can keep the over all pen nearly the same length, but also give the balance the writer wants in the un posted pen body. I have done this for three years and the results are better than I expected.

Interesting, Jim. How much have you been able to shorten the caps on your closed-end pens? Does it make a difference if you're doing a rollerball of fountain pen?

Thanks,
Dow

Almost 1/4 inch. I check with the nib lengtth on a finished pen, you can get deeper than you think.

I also only use the first 1" of the full sized kit body tube, drill full with the kit size to about 1 1/8 depth then the full length with the 7 MM to 2 7/8". I epoxy the full length tube in the body, then trim the excess tube off after turning the finished body on the mandrel. This gives me more options for body shapes, leaving more "meat" on the blank to thin out...

Jim,
What type of mandrel do you use for the closed end body? The closed ended Arizona Silhouette mandrel I use requires using the full length of the
brass tube to insert the mandrel up to the bushing. Regards, Doc

 

[dow]

Doc, Read Jim's post again:

I also only use the first 1" of the full sized kit body tube, drill full with the kit size to about 1 1/8 depth then the full length with the 7 MM to 2 7/8". I epoxy the full length tube in the body, then trim the excess tube off after turning the finished body on the mandrel. This gives me more options for body shapes, leaving more "meat" on the blank to thin out...

He could be using the Arizona mandrel, or a pin chuck either one. By gluing in the full tube, he can use a the whole mandrel to hold the blank, and then part the tube off when he's done. Pretty clever idea, and I wouldn't have caught it myself if you hadn't asked him. Thanks!

 

[wizard]

Doc, Read Jim's post again:

I also only use the first 1" of the full sized kit body tube, drill full with the kit size to about 1 1/8 depth then the full length with the 7 MM to 2 7/8". I epoxy the full length tube in the body, then trim the excess tube off after turning the finished body on the mandrel. This gives me more options for body shapes, leaving more "meat" on the blank to thin out...

He could be using the Arizona mandrel, or a pin chuck either one. By gluing in the full tube, he can use a the whole mandrel to hold the blank, and then part the tube off when he's done. Pretty clever idea, and I wouldn't have caught it myself if you hadn't asked him. Thanks!

Dow, Thank you!!! I totally missed that. :redface::redface: That makes perfect sense and it is clever. Again, Thanks. Regards, Doc

 

[seamus7227]

Sweet!!!! Thanks for sharing that info, I can use my Beall chuck to hold the blanks and make my own closed end pens without a mandrel! Dang, I never thought about trying it that way! OH, nice pen by the way Doc, nothing short of the usual! have a great day!

 

[Toni]

Oh Doc!!! Its gorgeous so sleek and smooth Love it!!

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Doc, Read Jim's post again:

I also only use the first 1" of the full sized kit body tube, drill full with the kit size to about 1 1/8 depth then the full length with the 7 MM to 2 7/8". I epoxy the full length tube in the body, then trim the excess tube off after turning the finished body on the mandrel. This gives me more options for body shapes, leaving more "meat" on the blank to thin out...

He could be using the Arizona mandrel, or a pin chuck either one. By gluing in the full tube, he can use a the whole mandrel to hold the blank, and then part the tube off when he's done. Pretty clever idea, and I wouldn't have caught it myself if you hadn't asked him. Thanks!

We have a winner...

I use the mandrels that are sold by William Wood Write, same as AZ I think

 

[dow]

Now I've got another question for you, Jim.

You said that you drill the tube hole about 1-1/8" deep, but also that you're only using the first 1" of the tube. Are you parting the tube off flush with the end of the blank, or are you squaring the blank after you turn and finish it and part the brass tube off at the same time that you square the blank? I'm trying to figure out where that other 1/8" inch went.

 

[Jim in Oakville]

Now I've got another question for you, Jim.

You said that you drill the tube hole about 1-1/8" deep, but also that you're only using the first 1" of the tube. Are you parting the tube off flush with the end of the blank, or are you squaring the blank after you turn and finish it and part the brass tube off at the same time that you square the blank? I'm trying to figure out where that other 1/8" inch went.

I square the face of the blank on the mandrel, so I account for about 1/16-1/8 for error.

 

[wizard]

Now I've got another question for you, Jim.

You said that you drill the tube hole about 1-1/8" deep, but also that you're only using the first 1" of the tube. Are you parting the tube off flush with the end of the blank, or are you squaring the blank after you turn and finish it and part the brass tube off at the same time that you square the blank? I'm trying to figure out where that other 1/8" inch went.

I square the face of the blank on the mandrel, so I account for about 1/16-1/8 for error.

Jim, I'm sorry if it's obvious but I just would appreciate if you would clarify something. Is squaring the face of the blank on the mandrel the same as parting the tube off flush with the blank? Thank you in advance. Regards, Doc