Celtic Knott - Amature Style

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from Jgrden

Jgrden

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
6,287
Location
hOUSTON, Texas
Well my first attempt at a knott failed. Ivory and Ebony but how the heck to you get those lines to match up????

Pens - 10-13-10 Celtic Knott 1.jpg

Pens - 10-13-10 Celtic Knott 2.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,148
Location
NJ, USA.
John

Its all about the glue up

If you are cutting all the way through your blank you need to put the pieces back in the same order and perfectly in line. Some people just cut enough so that there is about an 1/8" piece of material left. Then when they slide the inlay material in it just fits tightly and clamp it. The aligning part is done for you then. The catch with this system is you need to be very precise with the inlay material matching the thicknes of the kerf the saw blade cuts. There are articles in the library explaining this. Also there are videos on utube that explain it well also.
 

Russianwolf

Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
5,690
Location
Martinsburg, WV, USA.
John

Its all about the glue up

If you are cutting all the way through your blank you need to put the pieces back in the same order and perfectly in line. Some people just cut enough so that there is about an 1/8" piece of material left. Then when they slide the inlay material in it just fits tightly and clamp it. The aligning part is done for you then. The catch with this system is you need to be very precise with the inlay material matching the thicknes of the kerf the saw blade cuts. There are articles in the library explaining this. Also there are videos on utube that explain it well also.

Regardless of technique used to assemble, thickness of the inlay must match that of the kerf or the lines won't match up. The reason being is that when you make that first cut, you'll be fine regardless of thickness., but the second cut, if the inlay doesn't match the kerf, it will move the first cut out of alignment.
 

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,544
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
The above answers are right... The short and simple answer is that your inlays must match the thickness of your blade.

I had the same problem on my first celtic knot - it was supposed to be a bottle stopper. I couldn't stand the thought of throwing it away, so it's not a fob on my key ring.

The error in the first cut is equal to the difference between the width of the saw kerf and the thickness of the inlay, divided by the sine of the angle of the cut. And the error accumulates with each additional cut.

So you must make the thickness of the inlay exactly match the width of the saw kerf.
 

spnemo

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
261
Location
Tustin, MI
1. To make everything easier use an oversized blank (longer and thicker)
2. Do not cut all the way through the blank but be sure you cut to within 1/8" from the end.
3. Be sure your inlay material (plus glue) completely fills the cut without expanding it.
4. Practice on scrap material.

This one took me three tries and it still isn't perfect:
 

Attachments

  • Celtic Knot Pen.jpg
    Celtic Knot Pen.jpg
    55.4 KB · Views: 387

Jgrden

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
6,287
Location
hOUSTON, Texas
1. To make everything easier use an oversized blank (longer and thicker)
2. Do not cut all the way through the blank but be sure you cut to within 1/8" from the end.
3. Be sure your inlay material (plus glue) completely fills the cut without expanding it.
4. Practice on scrap material.

This one took me three tries and it still isn't perfect:
Thank you,

I noticed the deer pedicle that your pen rested on, in the photo. I have been saving them as I cut antler. I am not sure what to do with them except to make pendants. What do you do with yours?
 

spnemo

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
261
Location
Tustin, MI
1. To make everything easier use an oversized blank (longer and thicker)
2. Do not cut all the way through the blank but be sure you cut to within 1/8" from the end.
3. Be sure your inlay material (plus glue) completely fills the cut without expanding it.
4. Practice on scrap material.

This one took me three tries and it still isn't perfect:
Thank you,

I noticed the deer pedicle that your pen rested on, in the photo. I have been saving them as I cut antler. I am not sure what to do with them except to make pendants. What do you do with yours?


I save them for accent bands in pens or pen stands. I am thinking of saving up a bunch for a multi-layered pen.
 

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,829
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
I see. I will now try to cut without going through and then fill the voids. Whoda thunk??

John; I created a jig some time ago to help cut the blanks and inlays.
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2008/celticknotjig.pdf

The important concept is that the lead screw allows to to precisely cut inlays for the bands.

If you are using a table saw, try a 7-1/4" circular saw blade. They are narrower than the standard or even the thin kerf 10" blades. Mine is .075"
 

Bigdaddy

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
32
Location
Ottawa
You can also use Evergreen styrene sheets to add thickness to whatever you are using. If your inlay is thinner than the blade kerf you can add to it to match the kerf. It only comes in black and white but the thickness starts at .05" and goes up from there.

Check it out:
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm

You should be able to pick it up at most hobby shops.

Steve in Ottawa
 

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,148
Location
NJ, USA.
I see. I will now try to cut without going through and then fill the voids. Whoda thunk??



One other good tip is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get yourself a piece of aluminum angle. I use this when clamping my blanks back together because it will always give me the straight edge that is needed to keep all things lined up. I just place some wax paper between the blank and the angle to keep it from sticking to the angle.

In no time you will be changing the title of your post to PRO knots. Thanks for showing and good luck. Look forward to seeing the progress.

I need to get back to make some more of these because I have a few ideas I want to try also.

At some point you want to try something like these.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/reheartsierra-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/yellowheartsierra-1.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
286
Location
Canada
I see. I will now try to cut without going through and then fill the voids. Whoda thunk??



One other good tip is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get yourself a piece of aluminum angle. I use this when clamping my blanks back together because it will always give me the straight edge that is needed to keep all things lined up. I just place some wax paper between the blank and the angle to keep it from sticking to the angle.

In no time you will be changing the title of your post to PRO knots. Thanks for showing and good luck. Look forward to seeing the progress.

I need to get back to make some more of these because I have a few ideas I want to try also.

At some point you want to try something like these.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/reheartsierra-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/yellowheartsierra-1.jpg


Hi John,

Glad to see you got the harlequin knot to work. Haven't heard from you since those days on Penturner's Paradise. Did you ever try the "Stained Glass Windows" knot I suggested. Should be easy now with all the great acrylics available.

Or you could try this:

1__41_2.jpg

2__9051-_9053_Celtic-Knotwork-Inlay.jpg


1__9051_Cambridge_Sterling-_TitaniumGold_ElmBurl_Celtic-Knotwork_03.jpg
 

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,148
Location
NJ, USA.
I see. I will now try to cut without going through and then fill the voids. Whoda thunk??



One other good tip is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get yourself a piece of aluminum angle. I use this when clamping my blanks back together because it will always give me the straight edge that is needed to keep all things lined up. I just place some wax paper between the blank and the angle to keep it from sticking to the angle.

In no time you will be changing the title of your post to PRO knots. Thanks for showing and good luck. Look forward to seeing the progress.

I need to get back to make some more of these because I have a few ideas I want to try also.

At some point you want to try something like these.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/reheartsierra-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/yellowheartsierra-1.jpg


Hi John,

Glad to see you got the harlequin knot to work. Haven't heard from you since those days on Penturner's Paradise. Did you ever try the "Stained Glass Windows" knot I suggested. Should be easy now with all the great acrylics available.

Or you could try this:

1__41_2.jpg

2__9051-_9053_Celtic-Knotwork-Inlay.jpg


1__9051_Cambridge_Sterling-_TitaniumGold_ElmBurl_Celtic-Knotwork_03.jpg





Hi Larry.

I have not been to that site for a long time. Did not have a good experience there thanks to a few and would rather not relive that experience. This is a more gentle site and very friendly willing to share group here for sure.

I do remember our conversations and you were the one responsible for me getting started with the knots and thank you for all the help. I try to pass some of the things on.

It is so funny you brought up the stained glass look because that is one of the things I still want to try as I just mentioned there are a few things I want to experiment with. There are a couple others too and I have a metal blank all glued up with this technique but too scared to turn it. :biggrin:

I see you posted your latest creation and still marvel at the workmanship behind these. This is taking knot making to the next level. Thanks for showing and saying HI.
 
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
286
Location
Canada
jttheclockman said:
;1107310Hi Larry.

I have not been to that site for a long time. Did not have a good experience there thanks to a few and would rather not relive that experience. This is a more gentle site and very friendly willing to share group here for sure.

I do remember our conversations and you were the one responsible for me getting started with the knots and thank you for all the help. I try to pass some of the things on.

It is so funny you brought up the stained glass look because that is one of the things I still want to try as I just mentioned there are a few things I want to experiment with. There are a couple others too and I have a metal blank all glued up with this technique but too scared to turn it. :biggrin:

I see you posted your latest creation and still marvel at the workmanship behind these. This is taking knot making to the next level. Thanks for showing and saying HI.

"Scared to turn it"? Go for it John. It's only a chunk of metal as it sits. Could be something great!
I quit that other forum as well, same reason. Haven't done a segmented knot for quite a while. I think the harlequins were the last I did but I still think the "stained glass" idea will work with the right choice of materials.
 

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,148
Location
NJ, USA.
jttheclockman said:
;1107310Hi Larry.

I have not been to that site for a long time. Did not have a good experience there thanks to a few and would rather not relive that experience. This is a more gentle site and very friendly willing to share group here for sure.

I do remember our conversations and you were the one responsible for me getting started with the knots and thank you for all the help. I try to pass some of the things on.

It is so funny you brought up the stained glass look because that is one of the things I still want to try as I just mentioned there are a few things I want to experiment with. There are a couple others too and I have a metal blank all glued up with this technique but too scared to turn it. :biggrin:

I see you posted your latest creation and still marvel at the workmanship behind these. This is taking knot making to the next level. Thanks for showing and saying HI.

"Scared to turn it"? Go for it John. It's only a chunk of metal as it sits. Could be something great!
I quit that other forum as well, same reason. Haven't done a segmented knot for quite a while. I think the harlequins were the last I did but I still think the "stained glass" idea will work with the right choice of materials.

Yea I know. I am thinking I may want to add some banding before I drill and spin it though.

Sorry to hear you too were overcome by some of the arrogance over there. Better group here. You should actually put some of your tutorials in the library here. I bet others would find them useful.
 

gwilki

Member
Joined
May 20, 2007
Messages
971
Location
Ottawa, ON, Canada.
Larry says, "or you could try this", like it's as easy as falling off a log. :) His hand carved knots are incredible pieces, not for the faint of heart.
 

ctubbs

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
3,588
Location
Murray, Kentucky
I still have my first attempt at the celtec knot. I learned something important with that one, if the blank gets drilled off center, the knot just dosen't work right!:redface: All your work is too beautiful for words. I still love to watch a craftsman at work.:biggrin:

Charles
 
Top Bottom