Buckeye Burl and Alumilite

[Dick Mahany]

Here's a Jr Gentelmen's II RB with blue-green pearlized Alumilite. I learned to bake the burl to get rid of moisture as the first attempt foamed like crazy. Not a fun experience, but I'm a little smarter now :redface:.

 

[Jim Burr]

Pulled that rabbit right out of the hat Dick!!! Nothin' but beautiful!!

 

[dozer]

Nice pen and blank.

 

[SDB777]

How much moisture were you dealing with?
How long did you need to put the blanks in the oven for to bring your moisture within 'specs'?



Turned out nice....just the right amount of resin-to-wood(JMHO)





Scott (cool coloring too) B

 

[Dick Mahany]

How much moisture were you dealing with?
How long did you need to put the blanks in the oven for to bring your moisture within 'specs'?

I don't have a moisture meter but the burl has been in my shop for several years unsealed. I wound up putting the pieces in a toaster oven for 1 hour at 150 F and had success.

(On the pieces that originally foamed, there were tons of tiny bubbles wherever the alumalite contacted the wood, even when cast under pressure at 45 PSI.)

 

[Fishinbo]

Wow! It turned out really fantastic, great combo of the pearlized Alumilite and the burl. Great job!


_____________________
-www.sawblade.com

 

[seamus7227]

Im impressed from this end! Nice work, and to think there would be any moisture left in that wood after sitting that long, I sure wouldnt have thought it.

 

[SteveG]

An example of ambient humidity and its effect on wood and moisture content: I live in Hawaii, and most days the relative humidity is about 45-50% much of the day. A little higher in the cooler morning. Koa is a tropical hardwood, similiar to walnut in density and hardness. Koa will settle out to about 12% equilibrium moisture content. So if it takes a year or two to dry from green to fully air dry, the equilibrium moisture content will no longer change after that (stays at 12%), unless the wood is moved to a different environment.
Steve