Brazilian Rosewood Emperor

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twoofakind

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Here is my first emperor. It is made out of Brazilian Rosewood from the Martin guitar company. I tried an experimental finish on it. Let me know what you think, it is almost too shiny to take a picture of.
Andy

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mrcook4570

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I like the finish. There's no such thing as too much shine. However, my personal preference is to fill the pores. Any details as to what the finish is?
 

twoofakind

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Thanks. The wood is really deep brown with a burgandy hue. The finish is guitar lacquer. I left the pores in the wood so it would give a little character. I figured the wood came from a guitar factory, so why not give it a guitar finish.[:)]
Andy
 

ctEaglesc

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Nice kit selection for that blank.
IMHO the "character" left by not flling the grain detracts from what is otherwise a beautiful piece of wood.
I don't care for most Emperors I have seen because normally the blank selected for it looks like the choice is based on cost of the blank(Burls, highly, figured woods, busy acrylics, etc) rather than what compliments the components.
If this was made for a client who wished an "open grain" look then you made what the customer ordered.
If it was made as a "Speculation pen" because you wanted to impress prospective buyers, I would have spent more time in the finishing of it.
JUst because it is shiny doesn't mean it is finished.

I normally don't "critique" pens on this forum, but there is no longer a critique forum and you did ask for our thoughts.
If you are satified with it that is all that should matter.
 

gerryr

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I pretty much agree with Eagle. For me, shiney goes with a glass smooth finish, which means filling the open grain. I don't leave the grain like that because, so far, I haven't found a customer who wants it that way. They may be out there, but I haven't encountered them. With the grain open, I would suggest buffing it with steel wool to give it a satin finish. To me, that would look better with the open grain.
 

Skye

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Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />Nice kit selection for that blank.
IMHO the "character" left by not flling the grain detracts from what is otherwise a beautiful piece of wood.
I don't care for most Emperors I have seen because normally the blank selected for it looks like the choice is based on cost of the blank(Burls, highly, figured woods, busy acrylics, etc) rather than what compliments the components.
If this was made for a client who wished an "open grain" look then you made what the customer ordered.
If it was made as a "Speculation pen" because you wanted to impress prospective buyers, I would have spent more time in the finishing of it.
JUst because it is shiny doesn't mean it is finished.

Werd.
 

twoofakind

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I had been talking to one of my usual customers about one of these pens and what he wanted it made out of. I finally got around to turning it and sent him pictures of it. He bought it within 10 minutes. Go figure, who am I to argue.[;)]
Andy
 

twoofakind

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Thanks. First big single pen sale.Woo Hoo. A quick question. Do you use sanding sealer on all your woods, or just the open grained woods. Actually I might post this in the finishing forum too.
Andy
 

Skye

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I've never used sanding sealer, I just use thin CA to act as a sealer. I think what eagle was talking about is more gap filling.
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by Skye
<br />I've never used sanding sealer, I just use thin CA to act as a sealer. I think what eagle was talking about is more gap filling.
Sanding sealer is the <b>first step </b>to filling those gaps.
 

redfishsc

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Really, eagle, you don't technically need sanding sealer to fill in gaps. There is this mystery about sealer that you have to use it as the base coat for lacquer or the lacquer won't adhere----- this isn't true (nor is it what you were likely stating). The only reason to use sanding sealer is b/c it sands easier. All it is, well, is lacquer with mineral soap added to it.


If you spend the time researching and finding precatalyzed lacquers you will not need a sanding sealer at all, they sand quite nicely on their own, are much more durable, and higher in solids. Just hard to find. Call around to hardwood distributors and paint stores like Sherwin Williams, somebody is bound to sell it near you.
 

alamocdc

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Andy, congrats on the sale! I agree with Eagle and others on the open grain, though. I did the same thing with an Irish Bog Oak Baron recently and wish I had filled it. But that's just me. If it sells, I won't worry about it. If it doesn't, I'll likey take it apart and refinish it.

Fish, I think Eagle just meant that it is HIS first step to filling the gaps. I know it is mine and I know where to readily get my Deft Sanding Sealer w/o running all over town. It works for me and I like it.
 

twoofakind

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This was my first lacquer finish, and I debated filing the grain, but the guy said he liked the wood to still fell and look like wood so I left it "open" grain. I will fill my next open grain wood to make a slick finish. Do you guy's use sanding sealer under all of your lacquer finishes? Does it make all woods smoother? I am still a little new to different finishes. Before this I only used friction polish.
Andy
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by twoofakind
<br />This was my first lacquer finish, and I debated filing the grain, but the guy said he liked the wood to still fell and look like wood so I left it "open" grain. I will fill my next open grain wood to make a slick finish. Do you guy's use sanding sealer under all of your lacquer finishes? Does it make all woods smoother? I am still a little new to different finishes. Before this I only used friction polish.
Andy
At one time(before DEft came out with a "sanding sealer") They used to state with Deft lacquer there was no need to use a separate sealer. The lacquer itself was the sealer.
If you have ever applied and finished drywall mud you may have heard the saying "you can't sand out a hole"
The same thig goes with finishing pens.
You cannot sand out a depression(POres and open grain).You can fill them to the level of the surrounding area.This is where multiple coats come in,at least for me.I put light coats on and MM them off. eventually the surface is uniform.If it is extremely open grained such as oak I may leave the dust of the finer grits on to help fill in large "pores" or opoen grain such as OAK.Thick CA is also a good filler depending on the wood.

Originally posted by redfishsc
<br />Really, eagle, you don't technically need sanding sealer to fill in gaps. There is this mystery about sealer that you have to use it as the base coat for lacquer or the lacquer won't adhere----- this isn't true (nor is it what you were likely stating). The only reason to use sanding sealer is b/c it sands easier. All it is, well, is lacquer with mineral soap added to it.


If you spend the time researching and finding precatalyzed lacquers you will not need a sanding sealer at all, they sand quite nicely on their own, are much more durable, and higher in solids. Just hard to find. Call around to hardwood distributors and paint stores like Sherwin Williams, somebody is bound to sell it near you.


redfish-
I guess I am showing my age and ignorance.
When finishing some flatwork I purchased Flexners book on finishes and also read what Russ and others had to say on the subject.
On intersting point I picked up from Flexner and have seen repeated was that a "sealer" is the <b>initial coat </b>of the final finish.It serves a couple of purposes. It seals the wood(whoodathunk?[:D]) and it also "stiffens" the fibers to make them easier to sand. MOst of this is sanded off filling depressions and "raising the level of the pores.
I tried the Deft aerosol sanding sealer but it had a chalky residue that was difficult to remove in some of the woods(got stuck in the pores and I was going to "dental pick" each one out.)
I am using the Unoxol sealer in conjunction with their water based lacquer and the dust literally fliees off the blank with my compressor between grits.
Getting back to my point.
If I use CA to stabilize a blank atthe final stages of turning I am probobaly starting my intial step in sealing.Regardless of what finish I use, be it lacquer, WB lacquer, or CA the first few coats are normally sanded off leaving eve3ntually a clear smooth as a babys" but surface before the "build coats" go on and eventually the the final coat.This is determeined by the "depth of finish" I am after.
 
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