Blue/Black Stripes Custom FP

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Robert111

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Joined
Apr 12, 2011
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Saratoga Springs, NY 12866
This pen is a little longer than I'd like, but I think the proportions are better than the Tiger Eye pen I recently posted. I have an idea to move the threads deeper into the cap to shorten the overall length and get the proportions right--next pen.

This is an imported Italian acrylic from Richard Geenwald. I used my last polished steel #5 Bock. I think #5 Bock holders are too long and am going to either squeeze #6 nibs into these small-waisted pens or try the Schmidt holders and nibs Mike at IndyPenDance is now carrying. The bands are aluminum.

I wanted to get the holder flush with the end of the section but there's very little threading on these Bocks and I knew if I messed around any more I'd end up trashing the section.

Thanks for looking.

Weight 20 g

Overall length 146 mm (5 3/4")
Posted length 165 mm (6 1/2")
Length uncapped 125 mm (5")

Cap diameter 14 mm
Barrel diameter 13 mm
Section diameter 10.8 mm

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Robert111

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Joined
Apr 12, 2011
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Saratoga Springs, NY 12866
What a eye grabber, I like the aluminum accents. What process do you use to make the aluminum rings. Handsome pen indeed.

Chuck Hutchings (Dalecamino) did a tutorial for cap bands. I follow it exactly, but here are a few more details. Feel free to pm me for additional info.

I start with the cap blank turned to a diameter a little larger than the largest diameter the cap will eventually be. In this case I turned it to 15 mm. It's important to make the cap blank a perfectly consistent diameter, whatever that diameter is. In other words, it must be as perfectly cylindrical as you can make it.

It's important to drill a hole thru the center of the cap blank, and I always use the bit appropriate for the hole I'll eventually need on the finial end of the cap blank for the finial threading--in this case I used a 7.3 mm bit that's right for the finial threads of 8 x .75. If you don't drill this hole now, you won't be able to slide an insert into the cap blank in the next step (the air must have a way to escape as you slide in the insert).

I turn a black ebonite insert about 1" long, which will allow it to protrude from the cap blank about 1/2". After drilling the cap blank 1/2" deep with a 12.5 bit, the insert is epoxied in with 5-minute clear. I immediately slip on the aluminum bands and acrylic bands (that were parted off the cap after drilling at 12.5) onto the protruding insert being sure to use plenty of the same epoxy. Don't use CA--too heat sensitive. Cover all surfaces of the bands well. I extend the tailstock (with a jacobs chuck open the right amount and wax paper to protect it from the epoxy) up to the bands to push them tight to the cap blank.

After the epoxy is dry I part off the protruding ebonite insert as close as I can to the last acrylic band and true the end of the cap blank.

The aluminum bands are made from flashing material drilled with the same 12.5 mm bit that I used on the cap blank.

I make the bands for the finials from the same material and drill them to size for the finial tenons.

The cap blank is now ready to drill for the barrel threads--in this case with the 11.25 mm bit for the 12 x .8 T&D set.
 

wizard

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Joined
Aug 27, 2009
Messages
3,569
Location
Houston, Texas
Absolutely Beautiful Robert!! That material combined with your outstanding craftsmanship and attention to detail resulted in a piece of art! I love that color. The thin subtle accents look good as they complement the the beauty of the pen without distraction. Thanks for the information on the bands..and lol..I can't even tell you how many sections I have trashed while fooling around trying to get that "just right" look. Again, Gorgeous Pen!! Regards, Doc:)
 
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