Bet you've never seen anything like this before

[ChrisN]

A chrome Bolt action with crosscut oak and my "secret" "weathered" finish.

I tried this and I really like how it turned out. I think it matches up very well with the hardware - a nice, rugged look. Looking at the pics, I can think of a few ways I would/could make this a little better, but I think I'll let that for next time.:biggrin:

I've included a few closeups so you can see the grain.

See if you can guess how I did it.

 

[skiprat]

Wow that certainly is 'unique'..
Did you sand blast it or something?

 

[lorbay]

Man that is Fugly. Cool

Lin

 

[Hendu3270]

Possibly a wire brush while on the lathe???

 

[Dan Masshardt]

It's the pitting that gives me a hard time guessing the method.

If you tell me, I'll promise not to use it. ;-)

Truthfully, it is interesting, but I'd have no desire to do something like that in a pen. Now another turned item like a small vase, I think that would be cool.

 

[Fireengines]

It looks like you used a threaded bolt.

 

[robutacion]

I don't want to spoil Chris secret, and he may have done it in a way that I'm not aware of but, I know of 2 process that produce similar results with the right woods, as they need to have distinct wood layers with the sap fibers in between, one us using "acid" the other is using "flame", would be interesting to see if Chris in willing to share his secret, and if not, is entirely his right...!

Will see...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George

 

[Paul in OKC]

All I would have to do to get a finish like that is try using my skew When I first started using it I 'threaded' a lot of barrels.

 

[mikespenturningz]

I don't have any guess as to what you did but it is very unique. Very nice finish.

 

[ChrisN]

And the winner is....

Possibly a wire brush while on the lathe???

Sorry, no prize...

A wire brush, sanded with 220, a bit of CA glue, sanded again with 220 to remove (most of) the sheen. That's the basic steps, anyway. Anyone interested in a tutorial?

Truthfully, it is interesting, but I'd have no desire to do something like that in a pen. Now another turned item like a small vase, I think that would be cool.

How about a table, chairs, hutch, bed, etc.? Where I work, we just started offering this style of finish. It's the same idea, just slightly different in execution. It's supposed to look weathered and it gets an extremely flat finish on it - it looks like unfinished wood when it's all done.

I don't want to spoil Chris secret, and he may have done it in a way that I'm not aware of but, I know of 2 process that produce similar results with the right woods, as they need to have distinct wood layers with the sap fibers in between, one us using "acid" the other is using "flame", would be interesting to see if Chris in willing to share his secret, and if not, is entirely his right...!

Will see...!:wink::biggrin:

Cheers
George

Now that I've shared my "secret", you can tell how you think I did it.:biggrin: Your ideas sound interesting.

 

[robutacion]

Sorry Chris, I haven't seen your reply until just now...!

Woods like the one you used are great to created different effects, as the layers between the wood significant densities and flammability capabilities therefore, they will react first to the "treatment"...!

As treatment, the 2 methods I mentioned are a little more dangerous to produce unfortunately but can give really unique effects when done right.

The first one is the use of "nasty" Sodium hydroxide by making a thick mix and brush it on the wood. Sometimes, multiple applications are necessary as each "coat" will eat a little bit of the soft wood layers.

The second method is by using a burning torch however, for things like pens and identical items that require specific size, the wood has to be left a little oversize. Simple run the flame torch all around the wood surface, making sure it will not burn too much in a single place, try to give it a similar look all around.
The wood will show a burnt surface but not making the wood charcoal, you then run a wire brush with the grain to clean slightly the lower areas and then, re-turn the piece to correct size, this will remove most of the burnt surface wood.

These 2 methods are an old type "tricks" used by the mold wood furniture master, a little messy and dangerous but effective...!

I hope this satisfy your curiosity...!

Cheers
George