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TwoCatsPens

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
61
Location
Nashville TN. Area
Hey Gang,

I used to be here under a different handle (don't even remember what it was now), and just wanted to share some of what I've been up to.

I'm not sure what I used for a blank on the gold baron, I don't believe it was an instaview blank, but if anybody has an idea, I'd love to know.

The Black TN baron is Santine, and has some really nice movement in the wood.

THe Churchhill is Black w/Gold matrix TruStone. I LOVE how it looks, but it's the slowest thing to turn I've ever worked with. Lots of trips to the grinder to touch up the edge.

The Sierra is Olivewood.

Finish on the acrylic types, wet sand through 12000 MM, polish and a final coat of ren wax.

The Woods get dry sanded through 12000 MM, 15-20 very thin coats thin CA with accelerator spray. (I've had very mixed luck with BLO, this always works for me), let cure 24-48 hours, then finish out just like the acrylics. Sometimes they need to get started with 400 wet and 600 wet to get any bumps out.

Nothing done to retouch them, only changes from the original shots are just crop and add the shading around the edges of the image.

Looking forward to admiring your stuff, things have gotten a LOT more sophisticated since I've been gone.

Steve
Two Cats Pens
 

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seamus7227

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
6,220
Location
Wichita Falls, TX
Ah! i was trying to see if i could find your old handle on here. Did you try a search? There is a way to see all of the (Steve W) in the forum, if you filled your name out on your previous handle.
 

SDB777

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
6,620
Location
Cabot, Arkansas USA
Curious about the sanding on the 'woods'...you use all the pretty pads?

Reason I ask, I haven't noticed enough improvement after 1500grit(regular sandpaper) to warrant the investment of MM pads on wood.
Don't misunderstand, I am not saying your turning are in any way lacking in a great sanding and finish process. But I would love to hear your observations on the sanding.


Scott (keep the turning coming) B
 

TwoCatsPens

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
61
Location
Nashville TN. Area
Curious about the sanding on the 'woods'...you use all the pretty pads?

Reason I ask, I haven't noticed enough improvement after 1500grit(regular sandpaper) to warrant the investment of MM pads on wood.
Don't misunderstand, I am not saying your turning are in any way lacking in a great sanding and finish process. But I would love to hear your observations on the sanding.


Scott (keep the turning coming) B

Scott,

Not a problem at all. I just do it because it only takes about 5 minutes at most to run the deck of MM pads. Turn at a med / low speed, maybe 5 - 10 seconds back and forth, lathe off, quick sand lengthwise, wipe dust off, repeat till finished. A lot of times I won't do the lengthwise sanding on the last few pads. One thing I've done with my MM is to stack them up, draw a straight line down the stack in one corner, and a diagonal line from another corner across the pieces. That way I can get them stacked in order in just seconds, get the lines lined up and they are in order.

It's probably overkill, considering I'm doing a CA finish, but it's sort of the way I was taught, and there are times that I think it makes a difference that I can see, maybe just because I WANT to see the difference. :rolleyes:

On woods like Rosewoods, Palm, anything oily or with an open grain I'll usually hit it with either Wylands Sanding Sealer or CA. Either product I just sand 150, 220, 220 with the sealer / CA to make a slurry. Once it dries I go back to 220 and sand it on down the line. Even without the CA filler coat the wood always ends up with a beautiful luster and lots of chatoyance.

Takes less than 10 minutes to go from 'unsanded' to 'highly polished state waiting for finish application'.

Besides, I like watching it come to life.


Steve
 
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