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Old 03-13-2018, 12:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Aquapearl Executive Lemonade

I botched the drilling process probably because I was in such a hurry to use my new drill press instead of using the collet attachment on my lathe. That would have saved me all kinds of problems. The Spalted Pearl or Aquapearl blank was a cylindrical piece that would have fit perfectly in my 3/4 inch collet.

So I cut off 1/4 inch on both sides of the blank then used some stabilized elder burl I had leftover from another project.

As the saying goes "When life gives you lemons, make lemonade"

Thanks to Mal of Magpens suggestions I was able to get a nice finish using the Novus scratch remover and polish. Thanks for the help Mal!

Mark James also suggested I try something like the Executive style pen. Thanks Mark!

Gary
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aquapearl-pen-1.jpg   aquapearl-pen-7.jpg   aquapearl-pen-5.jpg   aquapearl-pen-2.jpg   aquapearl-pen-4.jpg  

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Old 03-13-2018, 05:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I think you did quite a nice job on that pen.

I am not a fan of the Executive, and I think your pen shows why ... the material ends up too thin particularly near the ends ... and I think we can see the brass tube showing through with that semi-translucent blank.

At first I thought that the blank had some yellow in it and I was going to say that your choice of (perhaps dyed) box elder for the ends was a good match .... but I can say that anyway .... it is !

Painting the inside of the drilled hole in the blank would be strongly advised in future.

Thanks, Gary, for your remark.
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Last edited by magpens; 03-13-2018 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 03-13-2018, 06:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Default Good Advice!

Thanks for the good advice Mal. The next time I make one of these pens I will do as you suggest and paint the inside of the blank. The finish came out so nice using that Novus scratch remover and polish I didn't really need the CA glue to finish it. I did put on a few coats just for protection.

Thanks for the helpful advice! Gary
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Old 03-14-2018, 10:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I too botched the drilling of an acrylic blank.. The bit caught and bound at the very end resulting in deep internal gouges. Because the blank did not shatter or split, I didn't realize it until it was turned down very thin to fit the executive pen kit. It buffed up fine.. No external scratches but can see the internal gouges and the brass tube at its thinnest edge.
I have four more to do to complete an order. What I will do differently on the next 4 is, I will cut the blank 1/4 longer than needed so I don't have to drill completely through. Than cut to size after drilling. Also, because this kit requires to turn so thin, I will take Mal's advice as suggest to Gary to paint the inside of the blank.

Live and learn..
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee Remedy View Post
The finish came out so nice using that Novus scratch remover and polish I didn't really need the CA glue to finish it. I did put on a few coats just for protection.
You don't really need to put CA on top of acrylic in most cases. In fact, it often causes problems because you usually need to sand CA to get smooth for polishing ... during the sanding you can sand through to the acrylic and you can even get a peel-off at that point. . I almost never put CA on acrylic unless there is a specific reason to do so, like filling a small surface void (bubble).

I just use Mequiar's coarse, Novus 3, Novus 2, and then Mequiar's Plastix.
Sometimes even leave out the first or the last depending on what things look like and what I like at the time.
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Default Still a Nice Looking Pen

I think I like your blank with the subtle graduation towards the center better than the way I did it. Mine is much more pronounced, but it would have shown even more of the brass tube if I did do it that way. I was also thinking that it might be better to use colored epoxy rather than paint for the inside of the drilled hole or the brass tube.

Those cylindrical blanks slip in the vice and you really can't keep tightening it because once you drill through to where you are holding the blank it starts to collapse an could possibly make a real mess.

That's probably a good idea giving yourself a little extra to play with.

Gary
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Default That's Good to Know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by magpens View Post

You don't really need to put CA on top of acrylic in most cases.
I was seriously considering leaving it without the CA glue, but I always see them finish their pens with CA.

It's usually a pain in the butt, and I would prefer not using it if I can get away with it.

Thanks for your input Mal!
Gary
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee Remedy View Post

Those cylindrical blanks slip in the vice and you really can't keep tightening it because once you drill through to where you are holding the blank it starts to collapse an could possibly make a real mess.

Gary
Gary,
To dramatically limit the amount of slippage of the cylindrical blanks. I've wrapped a small piece of the non slip toolbox drawer liner. Works wonders without having to crush your blank.
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
I was also thinking that it might be better to use colored epoxy rather than paint for the inside of the drilled hole or the brass tube.
I don't like coloring the epoxy because adding that to the epoxy lengthens its set and cure times and I like my tube-gluing epoxy to set up quite fast ... I use 5-minute and can start turning in another 10 minutes or less. So I prefer to paint the inside of the hole.
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Are you talking about drilling with a drill press and vise ?

I do all my blank drilling on the lathe and find that it is much more accurate and goes both better and faster.

Slippage of your blank can be a problem, but I don't see how you can do what you suggest and maintain drilling accuracy (which for me is very important).

Also, if you are worried about crushing your workpiece by tightening to prevent slippage, what you can do, if you have the right headstock chuck, is drill half way, and then leave that drill in, reverse the workpiece in the chuck, and then, with a second identical drill, go in from the opposite end. You have to be careful when the two drills meet, but you can take out one and go very gently with the other.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Ripper View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee Remedy View Post

Those cylindrical blanks slip in the vice and you really can't keep tightening it because once you drill through to where you are holding the blank it starts to collapse an could possibly make a real mess.

Gary
Gary,
To dramatically limit the amount of slippage of the cylindrical blanks. I've wrapped a small piece of the non slip toolbox drawer liner. Works wonders without having to crush your blank.
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Mal

Kids rule the world !!! .... eventually if not already !







Last edited by magpens; 03-14-2018 at 01:42 PM.
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