Another strange experiment

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DCBluesman

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In the continuing development of the Blues-line, this one is done in chechen burl.

20051554457_Blues-line%203.jpg
 
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NIce work D.C.Love the shape,
Love the burl.
Does the bottom fit into the top(recess?)
or is it flush?
The only thing that concerns me with the profile is possible chipping of the lower edge of the top tube.
Not mean to sound negative.
How strong is that edge?
 

DCBluesman

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Thanks for the compliments, suggestions and questions. Here are answers to a few of the questions.

Eagle and Ryan, the top fits flush with the bottom. One of my next variations is to have a slight recess. The wood at the edge of the top is 2-1/2 times as thick as you would normally find. Additionally, I put a coat of CA on just the edge portion that is not visible. Finally, it has three coats of water-borne lacquer on the barrels. Only time will tell, though.

Tip, I hadn't thought about using it as a desk pen, but that gives me some more ideas! BTW, as far as a purse pen is concerned, this thing is only about 5/16 shorter than a slimline.

I have a few more ideas to pursue. Hope you folks will stay with me as I bang em out. I'll try to use different woods so you don't get bored with the development.
 

DCBluesman

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Bev, I plan to make the clip optional. This design is really for slipping in a back or front jeans pocket, so I didn't use the clip.
 

wayneis

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A couple idea that may help you Lou. First I would soften the edge just a touch, just slightly rounding it. The next is that the recess is pretty simple if you have access to or know someone that does to a metal lathe. What I have seen is a modifyed barrel trimmer that the outside edge of the cutting surface is cut down so that the inside cutting surface drills a recess when you square the tube end. The way that I saw it done was the trimmer part was put into a chuck and I think that somehow he used a dremel to grind the cutting edge down. The dremel would have to be mounted somehow to the lathe or to the rest. If someone could figure out how to do it they could possibly make a few bucks modifying these for others.

Wayne
 

its_virgil

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Here it is Lou.
http://turtlewoodworks.com/pmggallery/kleinhenzrgal1.htm
Look on page two also. I'll post a picture of how the recesses clip looks on a pen using the stock finial. I just finished one in a spalted wood.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />I'd love to see it!
 

its_virgil

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Wayne,
Rich Kleinhenz over on Yahoo Penturners has the setup in his folder, or in his Guild folder for modifying the pen mill. I use a modified pen mill to recess the clip and finial on slimlines. I can post a close up picture if anyone would like to see the effect and could tracd down the setup fopr doing the modification. It leaves about half of the finial exposed and half hidden. Looks different and nice.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by wayneis
<br />A couple idea that may help you Lou. First I would soften the edge just a touch, just slightly rounding it. The next is that the recess is pretty simple if you have access to or know someone that does to a metal lathe. What I have seen is a modifyed barrel trimmer that the outside edge of the cutting surface is cut down so that the inside cutting surface drills a recess when you square the tube end. The way that I saw it done was the trimmer part was put into a chuck and I think that somehow he used a dremel to grind the cutting edge down. The dremel would have to be mounted somehow to the lathe or to the rest. If someone could figure out how to do it they could possibly make a few bucks modifying these for others.

Wayne
 

its_virgil

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Lou,
Here is the picture of the spalted pecan with thye recesses clip and finial using the modified pen mill. Can yuou see the difference in the finila height?
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />I'd love to see it!

200516195132_ADWardPen2%20copy.jpg
 

its_virgil

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Yes, a piloted end mil works best, I think they are called counter bores. I know nothing about metal machining. thanks.
Do a good turn daily!
don
'
Originally posted by Fred in NC
<br />Don, a machinist's end mill should work ok too. You can get them in a lot of different sizes.
 

its_virgil

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No, the modified pen mill in the message 2 or three above that points you to rich K's guild album. The finial is not very visible because of the lighting, but the closeup is of the same pen.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />Hmmm. It might be my eyes, but I can't even find the finial on the spalted pecan. Did you cut the recess with a Dremel?
 

Paul in OKC

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Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />Yes, a piloted end mil works best, I think they are called counter bores. I know nothing about metal machining. thanks.
Do a good turn daily!
don
They are called piloted counter bores. They are made for setting socket head cap screws below the surface. You can get them with the ability to change the pilot and make one the size of the tube.
 

DCBluesman

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Thanks for pointing the finial out in the enlargement. Now I get it! And I like it a lot. I may have to try my hand at re-purposing a pen mill.
 

Fred in NC

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Now for my dark secret: I don't use the counter bore for the Russ Line type pens, like the one Lou made !

What I use is a common, ordinary, run of the mill, drill bit. I will put a small taper inside the end of the upper barrel, where it meets the lower barrel. Then I taper the top of the lower barrel a bit to match. This completely hides the joint.

Remember, you don't need a steep taper. Just a little bit is enough.

Cheap, easy, works, you already have the tools, and the wood is supported a lot better.

200517152746_cbndtpr.jpg
<br />
 

wayneis

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Looks good, nice job. I like the looks of this one a lot better Lou. The lines flow better to me. Lou look at the KC twist in the CSUSA catalog, that is the look that I was refering to in an earlier post above. Round the top blank slightly and turn the bottom blank a touch smaller and do not round it. It gives the impression the it is recessed.

Wayne
 
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