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Old 03-20-2017, 07:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Glorious Pen, John T.
Superb Celtic Cross, In a Fantastic Black Acrylic Blank.
The Combination of the Aluminium, against the Black Is Perfect.
I love the thin Black Line where the Aluminium Section Cross,
Did you also Dye your Adhesive Black? Great Effect.
Magnificent Fit and Outstanding Finish, all Assembled, on the Ideal Chrome Sierra Vista Pen.
Congratulations,
Brian.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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VERY GOOD! You DO make pens!
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiprat View Post
'Another simple segmented pen'?? Yeah right !!!

JT, As you well know, there is a lot of effort and skill in making something look simple!!
Starting with a perfectly squared or perhaps perfectly round blank, selecting the best angle for the cut, matching the material with the kerf, re-squaring the blank (or rounding ), cutting the black to get the cross centered, drilling the blank accurately down the middle and without generating too much heat to wreck the glue and then turning it down to virtually B2B pucker zone so it doesn't look like a pregnant salami, .............simple??? Hardly!!!

You still got it old man!!!

Boy Skip you made that sound hard. I guess I was lucky. Thank you for explaining to Derek about drilling and you are very correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OZturner View Post
Glorious Pen, John T.
Superb Celtic Cross, In a Fantastic Black Acrylic Blank.
The Combination of the Aluminium, against the Black Is Perfect.
I love the thin Black Line where the Aluminium Section Cross,
Did you also Dye your Adhesive Black? Great Effect.
Magnificent Fit and Outstanding Finish, all Assembled, on the Ideal Chrome Sierra Vista Pen.
Congratulations,
Brian.

Thank you Brian. I have to say you and a few others are very very in tuned. I did use some black paint in the epoxy just in case the glue line did show some. It was a tight fit but you can not make them too tight because you do need to allow for glue or else the joint will get starved and fail. The thing though with dyed or colored epoxy when it gets thinned it is transparent to a point. I am dealing with this on another blank that I have on the bench to try. I failed with this one twice before because I am casting the blank. Hopefully third time is a winner. Remains to be seen.

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Originally Posted by leehljp View Post
VERY GOOD! You DO make pens!

Thank you Hank. Yes I do still turn a pen or two. Have a few more ideas to hope get done.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Nice looking pen with a lot of thought and work in the design of the blank.
This from the other John T.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Beautiful finish - I find black the least forgiving. Do you mind sharing your finishing/polishing process? Thanks either way - very nice work!
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Very, very nice John.....what was the thin material you used as a "shadow"
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyL View Post
Beautiful finish - I find black the least forgiving. Do you mind sharing your finishing/polishing process? Thanks either way - very nice work!
Tony I basically do the same polishing technique I use with all my pens, wood (with a CA finish) and acrylic. I had to do do a bit more sanding with this blank because I could not get the skew to corporate properly. I believe it was because the change from hard material to softer material in the acrylic was causing grabbing. So I started with 600 grit wet paper (automotive paper) and took up to 2000 and then switched to MM Then I polish out with my Micro Finish pre wax and wax. I have shown those before here. I have been using that product ever since I started making pens and have not changed. On rare occasions I will take it to the buffer.

Have to say I am not that particular with loops looking for micro scratches when it comes to my finishes. I feel if it is good enough for these blind eyes it is good enough




Quote:
Originally Posted by moke View Post
Very, very nice John.....what was the thin material you used as a "shadow"

The thin aluminum is 1/16" aluminum. This it just right with the tablesaw blade I was using. It left just enough room for the epoxy to bind. I use System III T88 epoxy on all my segmenting blanks. I really did not feel pressured when turning this. I felt very confident drilling and turning. I did knock off the corner before turning. I used a round carbide cutter to do most of the cutting and switched to my skew to get as close to final dimensions. Then finished it off with the sandpaper as mentioned above. With these kits I try to leave just enough of a bulge to conform to the kit shape because it is wider on the top than the nib. I did mix some black testors paint in the epoxy just in case there were any slight gaps. There were none but the colored epoxy did help in disguising the joints sort of.

Hope that answered the questions.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Beauty!
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Tony I basically do the same polishing technique I use with all my pens, wood (with a CA finish) and acrylic. I had to do do a bit more sanding with this blank because I
Quote:
could not get the skew to corporate properly. I believe it was because the
change from hard material to softer material in the acrylic was causing
grabbing. So I started with 600 grit wet paper (automotive paper) and took up to
2000 and then switched to MM Then I polish out with my Micro Finish pre wax and
wax. I have shown those before here. I have been using that product ever since I
started making pens and have not changed. On rare occasions I will take it to
the buffer.
Thank you John....beautifully designed and finished.
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Looks nice on the front page!
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