Another Casing pentel

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jskeen

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I took Rick's Idea for a casing pentel and modified it for maximum laziness on my part :) Here's the result. The tweaks I made seemed to simplify the procedure for me, YMMV.

First off instead of trying to dual drill and then turn an bushing to go into the case neck, I just sawed the black plastic pencil body about in half, chucked the nib half into my scroll chuck, turned the nib end OD down to press fit into the casing, and parted it off to about 1/2 inch long. Then I drilled the base of the casing with a letter I bit and used a small transfer punch to press the turned down plastic bushing from the base end down into the neck and flush. Then slid a slimline tube onto the pentel mech. as far up as it would go and insert the mech in from the back. Screw on the pentel nib and slide the tube down just enough that the pentel mech will click without binding. Mark the tube level with the base of the cartridge and disassemble. Drill a blank for the standard 7mm slimline tube and turn WITHOUT gluing in a tube, to match the OD of the base of the cartridge (or whatever you want, I usually cut off a second casing) Turn and finish the blank (including the groove for the clip if you want) then glue in the tube UP TO THE MARK you made earlier and slip the tube into the drilled hole in the base of the casing. Use some med or thick CA on the tube then slide the top and bottom together and make sure they are straight and concentric before the glue dries. Insert the mech and screw on the nib, and you're in business. I had to disassemble this one a couple of times and believe me, it's NOT going to come apart on it's own.

I dunno, it may or may not really be easier to make, but I know for sure that modifying somebody Else's idea is a lot easier than coming up with one of your own, so thanks for the tip Rick :)
 

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jskeen

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Using a once fired then full length resized 25-06 casing, there is a difference of about 22 thousandths between the top of the nib and the casing. To compare the difference at the ring in the nib itself is 13 thousandths. So, yes, the junction is definitely detectable, but not so much so that I find it uncomfortable to write with, and the existing step in the nib assy makes it look less out of place. If I was using a solid brass casing I would probably taper the neck slightly to eliminate this, but with a Nickel plated casing, this would leave a ring of brass, which I would not care for.
 

papaturner

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Apr 5, 2007
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Buchanan,Georgia USA
Using a once fired then full length resized 25-06 casing, there is a difference of about 22 thousandths between the top of the nib and the casing. To compare the difference at the ring in the nib itself is 13 thousandths. So, yes, the junction is definitely detectable, but not so much so that I find it uncomfortable to write with, and the existing step in the nib assy makes it look less out of place. If I was using a solid brass casing I would probably taper the neck slightly to eliminate this, but with a Nickel plated casing, this would leave a ring of brass, which I would not care for.

Thanks, James.
 
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