3 more Polymer Clay Pens

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Bob Wemm

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These are some of the "Mokume Gane" style blanks that I made a bit earlier than the Flower Blanks.:)

I got so excited about how these patterns were forming that I forgot to pay enough attention to the shape of the blank. I thought that I would be able to turn them to shape and still retain the pattern, although slightly different.:redface:

BUT!!! that didn't work and I now have a heap of oversize blanks, some of which I can manipulate a bit to make the fit reasonable.

The Jr. pen is the best of these 3 and I have to admit that I have peeled a few back to the tubes already.:mad:

The variety of patterns is incredible using this style.

Hope you like them and C & C welcome as usual.
Thanks for looking.

Bob.
 

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plantman

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Green Bay, Wi
Bob: I hope you didn't take the oath and swear off wood forever !! You have made some beautiful pieces out of wood !! Your pens and patterns in both wood and polymer clay are unique and one of a kind. As you have already found out when you did the flowers, if you slice the canes and apply them to the tubes, the pattern will stay the same as you turn them down. When you use the "Mokume Gane" method and turn them down, the pattern changes as you slice through the layers of folded or pierced clay. You are never sure what the final barrel will look like until the correct size is reached, but it never stops amazing you. You should realy seak profreshional help, as this path you are on can get quite addictive !!! Keep up the great work !! Jim S
 

Bob Wemm

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Bob: I hope you didn't take the oath and swear off wood forever !! You have made some beautiful pieces out of wood !! Your pens and patterns in both wood and polymer clay are unique and one of a kind. As you have already found out when you did the flowers, if you slice the canes and apply them to the tubes, the pattern will stay the same as you turn them down. When you use the "Mokume Gane" method and turn them down, the pattern changes as you slice through the layers of folded or pierced clay. You are never sure what the final barrel will look like until the correct size is reached, but it never stops amazing you. You should realy seak profreshional help, as this path you are on can get quite addictive !!! Keep up the great work !! Jim S

Hi Jim,
Thank you for that.
There is no chance that the wood will be abandoned, I love it too much.

My Wife started on Polymer Clay and I looked longingly at Toni's work, just wishing to be able to reproduce something vaguely like hers.

I do have professional help from a Lady in Geraldton. I just happen to know more than she does:redface:. You know how it is with smart arses..
Debbie is a great teacher, I just need to listen to her a bit more.

Like I said, I got carried away on these lot, but I did learn, the shape is just as important as the pattern.

Cheers, Bob.:)
 

OZturner

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Bob, What I love is that you have a go, and you tell it like it is warts and all.
All us Smart A%ses, "never ask for directions", or "read instructions".
That's just for the "Wimps".
You, on the other hand call a Spade a Spade, and acknowledge, that mistakes happen, and you are not too proud, or stubborn to ask for assistance.
I love your "Mokume Gane" style blanks, they are exciting and show great potential.
Keep working on them Bob, and keep us posted on your progress.
Brian.
 

lyonsacc

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Aug 31, 2012
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Cincinnati, OH
Hi Bob,

Nice looking pens. My daughter made a number of blanks last year that look nice, but we had the shape problem as well. Since then, I have started to make bushings - a 7mm tube and some scrap wood - for each different style pen she wants to make. These bushings, if I make them right, have a slight bevel to them so when we roll the blanks it helps create a better looking shape (the styles she has made so far look better with a slight curve to them).

Or, you could try stabilizing them - oh, that's right, you didn't win that set up . . . . (yes, I know stabilizing doesn't have anything to do with poly clay - just harassing Bob)

Dave
 

Bob Wemm

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Hi Bob,

Nice looking pens. My daughter made a number of blanks last year that look nice, but we had the shape problem as well. Since then, I have started to make bushings - a 7mm tube and some scrap wood - for each different style pen she wants to make. These bushings, if I make them right, have a slight bevel to them so when we roll the blanks it helps create a better looking shape (the styles she has made so far look better with a slight curve to them).

Or, you could try stabilizing them - oh, that's right, you didn't win that set up . . . . (yes, I know stabilizing doesn't have anything to do with poly clay - just harassing Bob)

Dave

OH YEAH DAVE,
Remember you promised to let me "borrow" that stabilising kit.
The bushes are a good idea, I used the steel ones to size the FLOWER blanks previously posted.
Made heaps of difference. Shows what happens when you THINK.

Cheers,
Bob.
 

Janster

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Nevada
....they all look good Bob. I was expecting the colors to be more "Vibrant".Perhaps that is because you employed an overall pastel theme to the pens and did not use real dark background colors? Nice work! Be well.....Jan
 

plantman

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Jan 2, 2012
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Green Bay, Wi
Bob; I am getting lost a bit when you and Dave say you are having trouble with the size of your blanks. I use two methods of controling size depending on the pen design and clay technique I am going to use. They both involve using two wooden spacers that will allow the proper thickness of clay that I want for my rough blank. Lay them out on a solid surface with enough space for your tube to freely roll between them. Insert a rod or drill bit into your tube so it sticks out on both ends. Run your clay trough the pasta machine at a setting a little larger than your rough blank size, cut to the size of your tube, and apply to the tube. Roll the blank between the two spacers to get an even thickness along the length of the tube. This method works for both random and patterened blanks. When I do the flowered designs, I use Toni"s method. (Found here on the site) Start with a thin background layer, usualy darker or lighter, depending on your main colors in the blank you want to make. I don't recall if Toni uses this step or not. Guage how thick you will have to slice your cane to meet the fittings and slice a little thicker. Lay out your patterns and press into/onto your background. Use the spacer strips to roll your blank to the rough blank size. Now on this one you have to be realy careful, it you take to much of your blank off when turning, you are going to cut through your pattern. For this reason I usualy fill in the spaces with a contrasting color after I have set the patterned canes directly on the tubes. If I use the spacers, I should be able to finish the canes by using a fine metal file to smooth out any rough spots, bring the ends down to proper size, and sanding only. No turning !! Toni is not a woodturner, she makes fantasticly beautiful blanks by hands, skills, and talents alone !!!!!! Read her piece in the library if you have not already done so. The other method I use, if I am not conserned about the pattern, is to just put the clay on the tube oversized, turn down to the largest thickness on my metal lathe, use a fine file or sandpaper to bring the ends down to the proper size, and finish. Hope this helps you some. Jim S
 
Last edited:

Bob Wemm

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
1,994
Location
Kalbarri, Western Australia
Bob; I am getting lost a bit when you and Dave say you are having trouble with the size of your blanks. I use two methods of controling size depending on the pen design and clay technique I am going to use. They both involve using two wooden spacers that will allow the proper thickness of clay that I want for my rough blank. Lay them out on a solid surface with enough space for your tube to freely roll between them. Insert a rod or drill bit into your tube so it sticks out on both ends. Run your clay trough the pasta machine at a setting a little larger than your rough blank size, cut to the size of your tube, and apply to the tube. Roll the blank between the two spacers to get an even thickness along the length of the tube. This method works for both random and patterened blanks. When I do the flowered designs, I use Toni"s method. (Found here on the site) Start with a thin background layer, usualy darker or lighter, depending on your main colors in the blank you want to make. I don't recall if Toni uses this step or not. Guage how thick you will have to slice your cane to meet the fittings and slice a little thicker. Lay out your patterns and press into/onto your background. Use the spacer strips to roll your blank to the rough blank size. Now on this one you have to be realy careful, it you take to much of your blank off when turning, you are going to cut through your pattern. For this reason I usualy fill in the spaces with a contrasting color after I have set the patterned canes directly on the tubes. If I use the spacers, I should be able to finish the canes by using a fine metal file to smooth out any rough spots, bring the ends down to proper size, and sanding only. No turning !! Toni is not a woodturner, she makes fantasticly beautiful blanks by hands, skills, and talents alone !!!!!! Read her piece in the library if you have not already done so. The other method I use, if I am not conserned about the pattern, is to just put the clay on the tube oversized, turn down to the largest thickness on my metal lathe, use a fine file or sandpaper to bring the ends down to the proper size, and finish. Hope this helps you some. Jim S[/quote

Hi Jim,
Thank you so much for your input.
Yes, I have read Toni's library article and discussed the ideas with my wife's poly clay teacher, Debbie. She suggested that it was much easier to make the petal canes rather than a whole flower cane, and I do agree, that way it is easier and you are able to make individual flowers, rather than them all being the same. I used my steel bushes to guide me to the correct sizes for the flower blanks that I posted last week.
However, Prior to the flower blanks, I made these Mokume blanks after my wife had been to a workshop with Debbie, and I was flying somewhat blind at that time. I was so excited about the new patterns she brought home that I just didn't think about the shapes that were happening. I figured that I could turn them to size later.:redface:
Now I know that that is not or almost impossible to do so the next ones will be shaped accordingly, so that turning is not required. I like the idea that Dave suggested for tapered bushes to allow for a tapered shape in the blank. I also like your suggestion so one of those options will be used for the next lot.
In the meantime I will probably peel off all the blanks that are too out of shape so I don't loose the tubes.
It is sooo much fun, I really don't have a problem with doing them twice.

Thank you again for your very helpful advice.

Bob.
 

plantman

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
3,437
Location
Green Bay, Wi
Bob; In the end, it is whatever works best for you !!! Look at all options and pick one, try it, if you don't like it move on to the next with the knowledge gained from the first. Jim S
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
403
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Bob; I am getting lost a bit when you and Dave say you are having trouble with the size of your blanks. I use two methods of controling size depending on the pen design and clay technique I am going to use. They both involve using two wooden spacers that will allow the proper thickness of clay that I want for my rough blank. Lay them out on a solid surface with enough space for your tube to freely roll between them. Insert a rod or drill bit into your tube so it sticks out on both ends. Run your clay trough the pasta machine at a setting a little larger than your rough blank size, cut to the size of your tube, and apply to the tube. Roll the blank between the two spacers to get an even thickness along the length of the tube. This method works for both random and patterened blanks. When I do the flowered designs, I use Toni"s method. (Found here on the site) Start with a thin background layer, usualy darker or lighter, depending on your main colors in the blank you want to make. I don't recall if Toni uses this step or not. Guage how thick you will have to slice your cane to meet the fittings and slice a little thicker. Lay out your patterns and press into/onto your background. Use the spacer strips to roll your blank to the rough blank size. Now on this one you have to be realy careful, it you take to much of your blank off when turning, you are going to cut through your pattern. For this reason I usualy fill in the spaces with a contrasting color after I have set the patterned canes directly on the tubes. If I use the spacers, I should be able to finish the canes by using a fine metal file to smooth out any rough spots, bring the ends down to proper size, and sanding only. No turning !! Toni is not a woodturner, she makes fantasticly beautiful blanks by hands, skills, and talents alone !!!!!! Read her piece in the library if you have not already done so. The other method I use, if I am not conserned about the pattern, is to just put the clay on the tube oversized, turn down to the largest thickness on my metal lathe, use a fine file or sandpaper to bring the ends down to the proper size, and finish. Hope this helps you some. Jim S[/quote

Hi Jim,
Thank you so much for your input.
Yes, I have read Toni's library article and discussed the ideas with my wife's poly clay teacher, Debbie. She suggested that it was much easier to make the petal canes rather than a whole flower cane, and I do agree, that way it is easier and you are able to make individual flowers, rather than them all being the same. I used my steel bushes to guide me to the correct sizes for the flower blanks that I posted last week.
However, Prior to the flower blanks, I made these Mokume blanks after my wife had been to a workshop with Debbie, and I was flying somewhat blind at that time. I was so excited about the new patterns she brought home that I just didn't think about the shapes that were happening. I figured that I could turn them to size later.:redface:
Now I know that that is not or almost impossible to do so the next ones will be shaped accordingly, so that turning is not required. I like the idea that Dave suggested for tapered bushes to allow for a tapered shape in the blank. I also like your suggestion so one of those options will be used for the next lot.
In the meantime I will probably peel off all the blanks that are too out of shape so I don't loose the tubes.
It is sooo much fun, I really don't have a problem with doing them twice.

Thank you again for your very helpful advice.

Bob.


Great job Bob! I also use component design to simplify most clay cane patterns. It's less intimidating to come up with a final product when you break it down to one petal (part) at a time, it usually turns into the most basic of designing (circles, blends, alternating colors, etc)....similar to intarsia / wood inlay or paint by numbers patterning.
 
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