SPIKE CONES FOR HI-FI WITHOUT ANY LATHE
"The technic I use for closed end pen"
"The technic I use for closed end pen"
Hi' everybody
Here's a little tutorial for those who haven't a metal lathe. It's not a pen's tutorial, but it's exactly the same technic that I have use for my kubotan pen, as this:
This pen is in stainless steel 316I and this tuto is about aluminium (perhaps 6060, I don't remember).
Outils : adrilling mill, a grinding tool with a 40 grain disk, tapping tools, some usely tools (I don't know all the names...)
Time: about 1 hour for 1 spike, about 2 or 3 hours for a SS pen
HOW TO :
(Pictures in the bottom of this page)
Step 1 : Choose a round (?) of alu, here it's a 1.18"" large, and X time the length you want. I need 6 spikes so 6 x 1.18.
You cut it with a hacksaw, or a mitter saw, a circular saw etc.
Step 2 : You have to determine the center of each round. You can do this with two square, or with a bisector etc...It as you want : the important is the center is.... center.
You mark it with a needle (?) and then drilling of a front hole with a forest centered (?). You can drill directly butthe risk of falsehood-circle is moreimportant (prefer a small diameter of drilling therefore to begin.
Step 3 : Drilling. Ideally on a drill column to be sure of the straight vertical drilling. For a tap of M8 (with step 0.49) you should drill at 2.65". Perso, I have drill in 2.6 with a good wisp, then 2.65" with a wisp first price. This economy of time and money if you don't need this diameter regularly.
Step 4 : tapping: with a tap M8, I've bought one inexpensive chinese tap in my local store. The internal tapping is roughly 1.57'' width for me.
Step 5 : lathe : I took a screw M8 with a not thread party and I cut the head. I have soan axle of 3.14" thread in its end to M8. This axle, I come to screw on the cylinder of alu over and put it in catch in the drill. With a disc to sand grain 40 (or less) and good protection for my eyes, I make turn the drill and I give desired form in the cylinder. Once it makes, (attention, it's hot :mad-tongue
, I sand of the cylinder from grain 40 to grain 600, always with the drill turned on.Step 6 : polishing with Mirror, with Belgium (?) or quite other product of polishing, foudable in local stores and of the kleenex, sopalin etc. (paper tissue or paper towel)
Step 7 (no pic): I insert a 2.75-2.8" long stem thread (cut in a bar 39.3" long) in every spike, with a washer of rubber and a special nut for wood (?). Here it is finished.
You could give the form you want, the only limit (hmm there are limits
) is your imagination.For a satin version, you could sand with 640 with water by exemple or to sand with a stamp scraper (?). You can do a mat version with micro-sanding but it's not really an easy homemade version. :giggle:In this exemple, it was aluminium. But you can do this in stainless steel. The differences are: more time is required, the steel heats up more than aluminium and you have to take a grinding tool with 25-30 or 40 if you don't want to spend long hours.
You are not obliged to tapped the piece of metal. You can turn a long cone in stainless steel , which the external diameter at start is a little lower than the internal diameter of the drilling hole and which the external diameter at end is a little higher that the internal diameter of your drilling hole. So, it could be grip on the drilling mill.
For pens, the thing that is the most difficult, in my opinion, is to think to stop the heavy grinding tools at the right time : to much early and you'll have to spend a lot of time, to late and the finitions will make diminish the diameter less than the desired diameter.
With this way of fabrication, you can have a cylinder turn with a precision inferieur in 0.039 of inch if you do this in the better ways (it's not alwas the case)
Sorry for my english and the object of this post (which is for speakers) and who's not a pen, but this is exactly the same technic I use for my different closed end pen.
Thanks to all.
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